In late summer 2022, Stefano Ghisolfi travelled to Flatanger, Norway to begin projecting the world’s first 5.15d, Silence. First ascended by Adam Ondra in 2017, the route has yet to see a repeat. Ghisolfi made good progress on the trip, figuring out alternate beta for the famous inverted crack crux sequence. He was also able to link the moves from halfway through the crux all the way to the chains, climbing through the route’s secondary crux section along the way. He ended up sending Move Hard 5.15b during the trip, a line which features this second crux sequence.
Realizing he wasn’t powerful enough to link the first half of the crux into the rest of route, Ghisolfi has since spent considerable time increasing his strength and power. He made the first ascent of Excalibur 5.15c in February, a fierce, bouldery power-endurance route in Arco, Italy. Then, after having quick success with Will Bosi’s Burden of Dreams V17 replica, he set his sights on the real thing and travelled to Finland to project the problem.
Not really known for his bouldering, Ghisolfi surprised many by completing all of Burden’s moves in isolation, including the notoriously difficult first move, which is perhaps the hardest single move in the world. He also managed an impressive link from the second move to the finish.
After his stint in Finland, he travelled to Flatanger to get back on Silence. He recently released a video where he talks all things Silence. He answers questions about the route’s grade, his shoe choice for the crack sequence, the crux beta, his progress thus far, and the projecting process. If there is anyone in the world who can repeat Silence, it’s Ghisolfi. He’s climbed four 5.15c routes and has considerable experience climbing in Flatanger’s Hanshelleren cave, repeating Ondra’s Change 5.15c and Move Hard 5.15b at the crag.