Stingray is a Classic 5.13d Crack in J Tree
The route was first climbed in the 1980s, wasn't repeated for over 20 years and now sees regular attempts
Stingray is one of Joshua Tree’s most iconic hard cracks. First climbed by Hidetaka Suzuki in 1988, after Mike Paul had climbed it on top-rope. It’s found on the Iguana Dome and didn’t get a second ascent for 22 years until 2010 by Canadian Sonnie Trottter, who said, “It’s one of the finest cracks I’ve ever seen in my life.”
About the route, Jason Haas wrote in a route desctiption: “Start up a wide, low-angled, left-facing corner a bit right of the steep crack overhead. Traverse hard left to the base of the business. I recommend setting up a belay here for rope drag and having the belayer be closer to you overall, but probably not necessary, especially if you solo the dihedral and flick the rope. From here, steep but not too difficult climbing leads to a nice stance below the business.”
Top trad climber Brittany Goris repeated Stringray a few summers ago after 50 tries. And Brent Barghahn, a low key trad crusher, recently sent it. On his blog, he said: “This attempt was satisfying, feeling locked in and in control up until the end. I did second guess the very last finger lock as I lost sensation, but took a moment to compose, and then trusted a gritty smear for a no-pulling slab style stand up to reach the anchor jug. I concluded my business trip and drove back to Flagstaff that evening. I am eager for pleasure climbing again once our never ending winter is over!”
Stringray remains one of America’s most difficult single-pitch crack climbs. Watch climbers send it below. Read more of what Haas says about it here.