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Study on Soft Catch Belaying and Belay Tips

Being a good belayer is a great way to support your climbing partner at the gym and the crag

Which method to give a soft catch is the best? A two-year study that was just released by Hard is Easy compares different techniques and comes to some interesting conclusions – watch below. And here are some tips for better gym belaying:

Check Your Systems: Maybe there’s a new reset and you just forgot to check, or maybe this is your thousandth belay and you are certain that you have the process down to a science. Regardless of the excuse, always check your setup and your partner’s. It can feel like checking every time is redundant and silly, but the most experienced climbers never get on the wall without checking to make sure they are safe.

Keep it Tidy: It seems like more and more people are entering the gym every day, which means there’s less space in the facility. Before you climb, make sure that the rope is flaked, the floor is clear of debris, and you are belaying close to the wall. It is best to belay close to the wall because it allows you to step back to take in extra rope in case your climber takes a big fall. It also ensures that your climber falls the shortest possible safe distance.

Flip the Rope: It can be easy to want to climb on the same end of a rope over and over again. If you’re using a 70-metre in the gym, flipping the rope, or pulling it all the way through the draws to ultimately tie into the other side, can feel annoying. Even so, it is worth flipping the rope every-time you come off route to increase the life of the rope and decrease the chance of the rope snapping.

Soft Catch Belays

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