In 1983, Canadian Kevin Doyle had one of the best climbing years of any alpinist that year. In Canada, he made the first ascent of the north face of South Goodsir VI 5.9 A2 and Gimme Shelter VI WI7R with Dave Cheesmond and Tim Friesen respectfully. Both routes are part of the 25 climbs in The Bold and Cold book.
Doyle then travelled to Europe where he climbed Central Pillar of Freney VI and the Peuterey Ridge IV on Mont Blanc and the Croz Spur VI on Grandes Jorasses. He then soloed the North Face V of the Matterhorn. The guides in the hut were making bets on how far he’d make it before he turned around, but Doyle climbed the route in a day. He then made the first Canadian ascent of the north face of the Eiger via the 1938 route a lost variation.
In 1996, while writing his book Pushing the Limits, Chic Scott travelled across Canada interviewing top climbers. This was his discussion with Doyle, who currently lives in Calgary and continues to climb. What an interview with the late Tim Auger, one of Canada’s first search and rescue technicians, here.
Kevin Doyle on Big Alpine