Alexander Megos made the second ascent of King Capella at Siurana in Catalonia, Spain, last week. The first ascent was earlier this year by British climber Will Bosi, 22, who suggested 5.15c.
If Megos confirms the grade of King Capella, it would make Bosi the first British climber and only the sixth climber ever to send a 5.15c. Megos announced his repeat on Instagram, but didn’t include a personal grade, only noting that he “used slightly different beta than Will taking a very wide pinch, which felt a little easier to me than what Will did. He couldn’t do the move the way I did it though, so I guess it’s personal preference.” Megos has now released an uncut video of his send, but still has not suggested a grade.
Bosi climbed La Capella 5.15b in the same sector in early 2020 which made him the first Brit to climb the grade abroad, before working on King Capella. Bosi said, “King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder problems stacked on top of one another however this route was another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to complete La Capella, whereas it took me three sessions to unlock the first sequence on King Capella.”
King Capella starts left of La Capella at the edge of the scooped wall into a set of bouldery sequences before the pressure finally relents. It took Bosi 10 sessions to make the first ascent, and took Megos nine days to repeat. Last year, Megos made the first ascent of Bibliographie after 60 days and graded it 5.15d; Stefanos Ghisolfi repeated it and gave it 5.15c – which Megos agreed with.
Megos’s Top Sends
Perfecto Mundo 5.15c in 2018 (FA)
Bibliographie in 2020 (FA)
King Capella 5.15c? in 2021 (second ascent)
Fightclub 5.15b (FA)
First Round First Minute 5.15b (third ascent)
Supernova 5.15a/b (FA)
Watch Alexander Megos send King Capella