Watch First Ascent of Route on South Face of Matterhorn
A film by Hervé Barmasse about his and his father’s new route in 2010 up the south face of the Matterhorn. The 1,200-metre alpine route is still unrepeated. There’s no better time than now to sit back and make plans to climb some classic routes. If you’re interested in alpine climbing, be sure to add the Matterhorn to your list.
Marco Barmasse says in the film: “Once again I saw the wall that had barred my way 24 years ago. There was also a friend and ice screw left behind from the Swiss attempt. Hervé managed to climb, slowly, without ever missing a step, and so we reached the exit at around 8.15 p.m. That was it: we were on the Normal Italian Route at the Enjambée, nearly home. In the couloir, the immense south face of the Matterhorn towers over you, almost crushing you…”
And Hervé Barmasse says: “Whenever we met up, at a family meal or just for a coffee, the ‘couloir’ was often the main topic of conversation. We always ended up talking about the Matterhorn which for us Barmasses represents much more than a mere mountain. So many things have been said and written about it; I can only say that this mountain is in my heart and each time I stop to look at it I can only daydream. I think my father feels the same…”