Watch Luzan Matyas Train For Action Directe

Romanian climber, Luzan Matyas, has been training for over a year to climb Action Directe in Frankenjura, Germany.

Over 14 months, Matyas has done over 300 sessions on his Action Directe replica training wall. Action Directe was the world’s first 9a (5.14d) and was climbed by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991.

Matyas reported on 8a.nu, “I just want to climb Action because Wolfgang is one of my heroes and AD looks amazing, and more, I think it is possible to climb such a hard 9a while having a full time job. I also think that every person has a style, a type of route where he/she excels at, and if he/she discovers what style this is, and he/she really likes it, then yes, 5.14a to5.14d is possible.

I believe this deeply. If I had the courage sooner I might have tried Action Directe even before climbing 5.14a.”

Training for Action Directe 9a from L. Matyas on Vimeo.