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Witness the Ascent of America’s First 5.15c

Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Suprême Jumbo Love in 2022. A short film about the send was just released

In November 2022, Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Suprême Jumbo Love in California at 5.15c, making it the hardest rock climb in North and South America.

Bouin, who made the fourth ascent of Jumbo Love 5.15b the week before, repeated the line but linked it with a direct start that was first tried by Chris Sharma in 2010. Sharma made the first ascent of Jumbo Love in 2008, and it was repeated by Ethan Pringle in 2015 and Jonathan Siegrist in 2016. The direct variation added 20 metres of 5.14d before joining Jumbo Love, which was the world’s first confirmed 5.15b. Jumbo Love was bolted by Randy Leavitt, who was with Bouin during the send of the direct.

The first time that he made it through the direct start was on his third try of the day. “I was definitely too spent to have any chance on the main Jumbo Love section,” he said. “I knew I had to do the direct and the Jumbo Love crux on the first try of the day.” On his next visit, things came together. “Sometimes, everything just comes together – shape, conditions, vibes, friends, cameraman, luck,” he said. “I know it doesn’t happen often, so I’m very grateful to live such big moments when it does.”

America’s First 5.15c