{"id":27264,"date":"2018-09-18T12:43:41","date_gmt":"2018-09-18T16:43:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gripped.com\/?p=27264"},"modified":"2018-09-18T12:43:41","modified_gmt":"2018-09-18T16:43:41","slug":"lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/","title":{"rendered":"Lots of Bloody Fingertips at World Championships"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_27266\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-27266\" style=\"width: 685px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"685\" height=\"517\" class=\"size-full wp-image-27266 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako.jpg 685w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-160x121.jpg 160w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-320x242.jpg 320w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-480x362.jpg 480w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-640x483.jpg 640w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 685px) 100vw, 685px\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" \/><noscript><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"685\" height=\"517\" class=\"size-full wp-image-27266\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako.jpg 685w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-300x226.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-160x121.jpg 160w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-320x242.jpg 320w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-480x362.jpg 480w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako-640x483.jpg 640w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 685px) 100vw, 685px\" \/><\/noscript><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-27266\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Miho Nonako and Petra Klinger with damaged fingers  Photo Eddie Fowke<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A big theme in semis and finals at the world championships was bloody fingertips. <\/p>\n<p>Climbers have to tape their fingertips anytime they start bleeding and with 10 days of intense climbing, most climbers wore through all of their skin.<\/p>\n<p>During the combined, almost all of the women had bleeding tips by the lead round, which meant lots of tape and reduced friction.<\/p>\n<p>In men&#8217;s bouldering semifinals, Nimrod Marcus, the first Israeli climber to compete in a world championships was fighting with blood and had to call it quits on at least one problem.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_27272\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-27272\" style=\"width: 995px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" data-src=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"995\" height=\"635\" class=\"size-full wp-image-27272 lazyload\" data-srcset=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape.jpg 995w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-300x191.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-768x490.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-160x102.jpg 160w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-320x204.jpg 320w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-480x306.jpg 480w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-640x408.jpg 640w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-960x613.jpg 960w\" data-sizes=\"(max-width: 995px) 100vw, 995px\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==\" \/><noscript><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"995\" height=\"635\" class=\"size-full wp-image-27272\" srcset=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape.jpg 995w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-300x191.jpg 300w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-768x490.jpg 768w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-160x102.jpg 160w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-320x204.jpg 320w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-480x306.jpg 480w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-640x408.jpg 640w, https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Stasa-Gejo-tape-960x613.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 995px) 100vw, 995px\" \/><\/noscript><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-27272\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stasa Gejo with tapped fingers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The most obvious struggle with tip tape was Stasa Gejo in women&#8217;s bouldering finals. <\/p>\n<p>On the last problem, she had to re-tape between every attempt. You can watch below that the problem had an intense left hand sloper move that led to a big right-hand move with a toe catch.<\/p>\n<p>You can almost feel your skin peel away. Watch below at 1:45:00.<\/p>\n<p><iframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/YxAL5UaRXJ8\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; encrypted-media\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>A big theme in semis and finals at the world championships was bloody fingertips. Climbers have to tape their fingertips [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":321,"featured_media":27266,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[367823,369,367978,367818],"tags":[368364],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Lots of Bloody Fingertips at World Championships - Gripped Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"A big theme in semis and finals at the world championships was bloody fingertips. Climbers have to tape their fingertips anytime they start bleeding and\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Lots of Bloody Fingertips at World Championships - Gripped Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A big theme in semis and finals at the world championships was bloody fingertips. Climbers have to tape their fingertips anytime they start bleeding and\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Gripped Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2018-09-18T16:43:41+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"685\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"517\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"gripped\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"gripped\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"1 minute\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"gripped\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/#\/schema\/person\/53a106694543bb4d761da593a3d5c1c2\"},\"headline\":\"Lots of Bloody Fingertips at World Championships\",\"datePublished\":\"2018-09-18T16:43:41+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-09-18T16:43:41+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/\"},\"wordCount\":192,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"indoor climbing-featured\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Comps\",\"Events\",\"Indoor Climbing\",\"Profiles\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/\",\"name\":\"Lots of Bloody Fingertips at World Championships - Gripped Magazine\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/indoor-climbing\/lots-of-bloody-fingertips-at-world-championships\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/gripped.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/09\/Miho-Nonako.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2018-09-18T16:43:41+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-09-18T16:43:41+00:00\",\"description\":\"A big theme in semis and finals at the world championships was bloody fingertips. 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