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Janja Garnbret Wins 20th Boulder Gold at World Cup

It was a masterclass performance at the Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria

Photo by: Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC

Janja Garnbret’s dominance in the world of competition climbing continues to be unstoppable. At today’s women’s Boulder World Cup final in Innsbruck, Garnbret topped every problem with relative ease to win gold. She also placed first in the semi-final round. It’s her 17th Boulder World Cup gold to date and her 20th ever if you add in her three Boulder World Championship victories in 2018, 2019, and 2023.

In Innsbruck, Garnbret was the only woman to top all four climbs in the finals. She flashed problem #2 – a powerful line up slopers – and topped every other problem in only three attempts each. Her dominance was most apparent on problem #4, the final climb of the night. The five competitors before her struggled to reach the zone hold on the incredibly complex, confusing problem. Garnbret unlocked the low crux sequence quickly using a mix of intelligent beta and raw strength. She then took the problem to the top with a dyno finish.

Garnbret was joined on the Innsbruck podium by her Slovenian teammate Jennifer Eucharia Buckley in second. The 17-year-old had a breakthrough rookie performance in her first-ever Boulder World Cup appearence, achieving three tops. In third was American Annie Sanders, also with three tops. It was the 16-year-old’s first time standing on a World Cup podium.

Photo by Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC

There were many Paris Olympian upsets in the women’s Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck. South Korea’s Chaehuyn Seo and China’s Yuetong Zhang didn’t make it past the qualification round, placing 32nd and 45th respectively. In the semi-finals, Oriane Bertone of France placed seventh, Oceania Mackenzie of Australia placed 12th, and Ai Mori of Japan placed 15th, all missing out on their chance to compete in the finals.

The women’s Boulder World Cup was just the start of the Innsbruck event. The men’s Boulder semi-final and final are taking place tomorrow, June 28. The women and men’s Lead semi-finals will then be held on Saturday, with the Lead finals taking place the following day on Sunday. See below for the full schedule.

Final Results

  1. Janja Garnbret [SLO] (4T4z 10 9)
  2. Jennifer Eucharia Buckley [SLO] (3T3z 11 8)
  3. Annie Sanders [USA] (3T3z 12 9)
  4. Mao Nakamura [JPN] (2T2z 4 2)
  5. Jessica Pilz [AUT] (1T4z 6 13)
  6. Fanny Gibert (FRA) (0T2z 0 5)

Women’s Boulder Final at Innsbruck World Cup

Innsbruck World Cup Livestream Schedule

Men’s Boulder semi-final – Friday June 28 – 7:00am ET (4:00am PT)
Men’s Boulder final – Friday June 28 – 1:30pm ET (10:30am PT)

Women and Men’s Lead semi-finals – Saturday June 29 – 1:40pm ET (10:40am PT)
Women and Men’s Lead finals – Sunday June 30 – 1:40pm ET (10:40am PT)

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Lead photo: Nakajima Kazushige/IFSC