Gripped Magazine

International

First female ascent of world’s first 5.14b

Melissa Le Neve has repeated the world’s first 5.14b, Wolfgang Gullich’s Wallstreet in Frankenjura It has been 27 years since the 27-year-old Gullich made the first climbed it and Neve is the first woman to make an ascent. The route has a burly start with a number of
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New Route on Huntington by Mayo and Wharton

Mount Huntington has long been one of the most sought-after alpine peaks in Alaska. Canadians Nick Buda and Bryce Brown recently climbed The Harvard Route and reported great conditions. Will Mayo posted this on social media on May 12: “Josh Wharton and I climbed a new route
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Lee solos Let’s Get Killed

Let’s Get Killed is a stout route at Lancashire on Wilderness Rocks and goes at E6, 6B, with a rope on. Nathan Lee solos the 12-metre route that has a burly roof and sketchy face that has some dubious holds. It was first climbed in 2001 by Thomas de Gay.  
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Cosmiques Arete

Chamonix’s famous Cosmique Arete was first climbed by George and Maxwell Finched in August 1911. From Summit Post: The Cosmiques Ridge is a supurb varied route which is justifiably popular. It is the perfect introduction to Alpine mixed climbing has enough variety to keep
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New route above Khumbu

Labuche East is a 6,145-metre Nepalese peak close to the Khumbu Glacier. It was first climbed in 1984 by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen The Odessa Alpine Club climbed a new route on Lobuche East in eight days. The climb took three nights on the wall in heavy snowfall.
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Nalle bags third-ascent of V15

Nalle Hukkatival recently sent the sit start to Klem Loskot’s Bugeleisen in Austria, a 13-year project. Before leaving Maltatal valley he dispatched one last route, the sit start to Loskot’s 2002 route Emotional Landscape. Nalle Hukkatival reports on Facebook,
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Adam Ondra in UK, onsighted Master’s Edge

Adam Ondra visits The Peak as part of the La Sportiva weekend. He onsighted Master’s Edge, Balance It Is, The Knock and Messiah. Adam Ondra Visits The Peak District from Lyon Equipment on Vimeo.
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Alex Megos sends Action Directe

Alex Megos needed only two hours to redpoint the world’s first 5.14d, first climbed by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991. The Frankenjura route has stood the test of time and is consider the “must do” for climbers pushing the grade. Frankenjura reported Megos had only
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The River of Life in California, a wild new crack climb!

San Diego’s short version of Separate Reality – a new roof-crack rock climb featuring Randy Leavitt, filmed by Chris Hubbard, belayed by Stacey Stevenson. High above a city of two-million people. Though this climb is only 5.11+, it is spectacular for the grade.   
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Wet Dreams V11

Wet Dreams (right) is located in the colourful canyons of Red Rocks. While there for not long enough, we found a boulder that needed to be displayed and showcased. For beta or for worse, enjoy this short that was filmed by Vince Schaefer and edit by Josh Larson, the climber is
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