Gripped Magazine

International

Proud New Line on the Mooses Tooth

Canadian Alik Berg and American Skiy Detray are returning to their respected homes on either side of the border after a team effort bagged them a proud new line in Alaska. Berg and Detray made headlines this year when they made the second winter ascent of the Greenwood/Locke M6
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Watch Sean Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee Climb in South America

Watch Sean Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee make the second and third free ascent of the Sifuentes – Monti route at Frey, Bariloche, Patagonia, Argentina. Nicolas Favresse made the first free ascent in 2011 and graded it 5.13a. The route has been freed a number of times now.
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Dai Koyamada Sends Longtime Project

Japanese climber, Dai Koyamada, has climbed a mega project Mount Hiei that he was introduced to three years ago. Koyamada, 38, reported on his blog (in Japanese) that the climb follow a steep crack in a granite boulder that is followed by a five-metre slab. He is yet to grade or
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James Lucas Sends Difficult El Cap Route

American climber James Lucas, who’s been called the last real dirtbag, has sent Freerider on El Cap 5.12d, 37 pitches. James Lucas has been attempting Freerider since 2011 and announced on his Instagram that he sent the classic El Cap free route in less than 15 hours. Over
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Chris Sharma Onsights 5.14b in Spain

Chris Sharma is one of the world’s most accomplished climbers with sends of the some of the most difficult routes in the sport. He recently onsighted a 5.14b in Catalonia, Spain. “It’s been great to just go with the flow these days,” said Sharma on his
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Watch the first Dawn Wall Feature

Kevin Jorgeson and his partner Tommy Caldwell caught the world’s attention in January 2015 when they spent a few weeks trying to piece together difficult sequence to bag the first free ascent of Yosemite’s Dawn Wall.
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Canadian Ben Pettersson Sends Nine Month Swedish Project

Ben Pettersson is a Canadian climber studying for a masters in fresh water toxicology at the University of Uppsala, an hour north of Stockholm, and has recently sent a nine month project. By Ben Pettersson I love living in Stockholm because the sport climbing is defined by short
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Adam Ondra Flashes V11 at Melloblocco, the World’s Biggest Climbing Fest

Adam Ondra flashes Metodo Iperespresso V11 in Mota, Italy during the 2015 Melloblocco bouldering festival.  The 12th season of the Melloblocco festival wrapped up on May 3 in Val Masino and Val di Mello, Italy. It was the biggest climbing and bouldering fest in the world and
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David Allfrey Climbs Difficult Red Rock Splitter

David Allfrey honed his craft on Yosemite Valley’s granite walls and holds several speed records on El Capitan including the first one day ascent of Excalibur. David brought his rock star looks and rock solid trad climbing technique to Las Vegas, so now we get to see him
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The Chad Kellogg Memorial Route

Chad Kellogg was an American alpinist who was tragically killed in Patagonia in February, 2014, by rockfall on Fitz Roy. Kellogg and his climbing partner Jens Holsten had climbed the Afanassieff Route on the northwest ridge of Fitz Roy. After reaching the top on Feb. 14, they
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