I’ve been mulling this over for the better part of a year, and I’ve come to a conclusion. Based on what I said earlier, I was wrong to suggest that the danger I had put my beginner climbing partner in was in any way, shape, or form, anybody’s fault but my own. I apologize to the Squamish climbing community for suggesting any differently.

My view that anchors should be on the top of Penny Lane is not only coming from someone out-of-province, but a person usually supportive of traditional means of climbing protection and respect for local traditions of climbing subculture. The fact is that even though I was not a paid climbing guide, nor did I feel at the time responsible for the inexperience of my partner who found himself in a predicament at the top of Penny Lane, I now feel differently. If we are to exclude ourselves from the responsibility of our inexperienced partners, it severs an important part of the core philosophy essential of climbing. By placing my trust in the hands of my inexperienced partner while I was leading, I do not know why I expected to be free of culpability on the other end. This, in and of itself, was illogically concluded.

I think that Squamish and the Smoke Bluffs are a great place to climb, but I realize that in climbing there exists inherent danger, even if that danger pertains only to the surprise of finding no bolts from which to lower off. A climber must always be prepared for that contingency, and given that my partner was not prepared, I should have ensured that he was as the more experienced climber. Even if I don’t personally agree with Anders Ouroum or some of the local climbers, I feel that my opinion on the matter was overstated, especially coming from a new arrival from Ontario. And when you really think about it, to assume that bolts should have been placed at the top of a random climb as a matter of complete and utter expectation on my part, was grossly negligent.

I’ve learned from this experience, and I feel embarrassed for having tried to pass off the blame onto my inexperienced friend. As a rock climber who frequently provided courses and guiding in Ontario, I should have used my training, knowledge, and experience as an instructor to properly handle the situation. This aberrant incident does not properly reflect the respect I have for Squamish, B.C. climbers, and for the safe engagement of traditional climbing.

- Adrian MacNair

Is this part of your 12 step program, Adrian? Those are very moving, heartfelt words.
Perhaps as the next part of your penance you will introduce a certain Marmite-munching newcomer to the Vancouver scene to the rigours of Squamish climbing.