New 10-Pitch 5.11 on EEOR Near Canmore is The Alt-Left

October 21st, 2017 by gripped | Posted in News, Profiles, Rock, Rockies, Routes | No Comments »

Steve Holeczi and Marc Piche have been establishing routes in the Canadian Rockies for over 20 years. Both IFMGA mountain guides, they are two of the more knowledgeable rock climbers based in Alberta. Piche […]


Josh Wharton Gives Canadian Alpine Climbing Lessons

October 18th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in Profiles, Rockies, Routes, Video | No Comments »

Josh Wharton, one of America’s top climbers, spent a busy week in Canada in May 2012 where he did the first one-day ascents of the Emperor Face on Mount Robson and the Wild Thing […]


Ice Climbers Should Carry Beacons in Avalanche Areas

October 10th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in Profiles, Rockies, Routes | No Comments »

Grant Statham is based in Canmore and has been ice climbing for 30 years. For most of that time, Statham has worked as an IFMGA mountain guide and a leading avalanche forecaster doing a […]


Magician’s Apprentice is New Rockies 5.14 by Evan Hau

September 28th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in News, Profiles, Rock, Rockies, Routes | Comments Off on Magician’s Apprentice is New Rockies 5.14 by Evan Hau

Calgary-based Evan Hau is fresh off his new 5.15a called Honour and Glory in Echo Canyon on Grotto Mountain in the Canadian Rockies. He wasted no time continuing his first-ascent 2017 spree with his […]


A Mixed Bag of Nuts – Canada’s Top Mixed Routes

September 20th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in 2012.05, Profiles, Rockies, Routes | Comments Off on A Mixed Bag of Nuts – Canada’s Top Mixed Routes

Collaborating with Slawinski, Gadd, and Owens and a group of Canadian Rockies adventure seekers, I created a top-10 mixed climbing route list. This list was put together to give some sort of direction; a guide to where you might find a climb that will leave you with shivers up your spine, grinning from ear -to-ear and hopefully psyched for more.





New 17-pitch Big Wall Line Opened on Bugaboo Spire

September 18th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in News, Profiles, Rock, Rockies, Routes | Comments Off on New 17-pitch Big Wall Line Opened on Bugaboo Spire

Tutti Frutti Summer Love is the newest addition to the Bugaboos after the hot and dry summer of 2017. It was climbed by Vlad Capusan and Tom Schindfessel in August. The 17-pitch 5.11+ A3 […]


Eight Breakthroughs in a Year, from V17 to 5.15d

September 11th, 2017 by gripped | Posted in International, Profiles, Rockies, Routes | Comments Off on Eight Breakthroughs in a Year, from V17 to 5.15d

It has been one of the most memorable years of climbing since Nalle Hukkataival pushed the grade-bar to the hard-to-imagine V17 grade. Since that big send in October 2016, climbers have been pushing every […]