Gripped Magazine

Mountain

Yosemite’s Unemployment Line Freed

The Unemployment Line on Mount Broderick in Yosemite was first climbed 1982 by Alan Bartlett, Jim May and Stever Gerberding. Shaun Reed and Scott Nelson made the first free ascent of the route on April 24, Cedar Wright and James Lucas made the second free ascent a week later.
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New Route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson

Americans Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper climbed a new route on Alaska’s Mount Johnson from May 1 to 4.  Based on the Ruth Glacier, the pair climbed the Stairway to Heaven VI, A1, M6, WI4, AI5+X with support from the Mugs Stump Award. Jennings wrote on his socia
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New Route on Huntington by Mayo and Wharton

Mount Huntington has long been one of the most sought-after alpine peaks in Alaska. Canadians Nick Buda and Bryce Brown recently climbed The Harvard Route and reported great conditions. Will Mayo posted this on social media on May 12: “Josh Wharton and I climbed a new route
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Return to Everest (climbers fly to camp two)

After the April avalanche that killed 16 Sherpas on Everest, many people assumed no one would return to the Nepalese side of the mountain this year. Two climbers, from the U.S. and China, have flown by helicopter above the Khumbu Icefall, therefore passing the greatest objective
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Bad Alaska weather? Write a song! The Kichatna Blues debut

Renee Lavergne and Nancy Hansen were stuck in a tent in the Kichatna Mountains of Alaska, in the rain, for 17 days straight. They did not have a book or iPod. For entertainment, they wrote, performed and recorded a song called the Kichatna Blues. Hansen and Lavergne were hoping
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The 2014 Chamonix Mountain Festival

The second annual Chamonix Mountain Festival runs from June 29 to July 6, 2014.   The Chamonix Mountain Festival is a gathering for like-minded climbers: • Friendly atmosphere – organised by mountaineers for mountaineers • No age limit, no grade limit • One great all
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Drones Banned in Yosemite

The National Parks Service (NPS) which governs Yosemite has banned the use of drones as a result of the recent increase of their use for photography. In a statement, the NPS notes that there has been a recent increase in the use of drones to capture aerial footage and rock
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Discovery Channel Documentary: Everest Avalanche

The documentary features emotional and real time footage, capturing the mobilization efforts of Sherpas and rescuers as they rushed to search for survivors. Through eyewitness accounts, viewers will hear from those who experienced this horrible tragedy and aftermath including sit
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Big Wall Speed Climbing Comp, New Record

Croatia’s Paklenica 15th big wall speed comp took place Mar 3.  Brothers Jurica and his brother Perica Levatić won the event. When you think about speed climbing, you likely don’t think about Croatia. For 15 years, climbers have been gathering in Paklenica’s
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Canadians climb Harvard Route, and other Alaska news

The Harvard Route is a classic in the Alaska Range. The Harvard is a  mixed route with steep aid climbing on some of the best granite in the range. Mount Huntington is one of the most aesthetic peaks in North America. On May 4, Canmore-based Bryce Brown and Thunder Bay climber
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