Gripped Magazine

Mountain

Three Dawn Wall Articles Worth Checking Out

With everyone in a frenzy to have the first and best story about the Dawn Wall, here are a few pieces written over the last two days that stand out from the rest. News on the Dawn Wall 1.  Freddie Wilkinson’s New York Times piece A main stream news source finally consults a
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A Line Across the Sky

Long considered impossible, coveted by many and attempted by a few, the Fitz Traverse has fueled the imaginations of climbers in Patagonia for decades. Tracing the iconic skyline of Cerro Fitz Roy and its six satellite peaks, it spans four miles and 13,000 feet across snow and
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Canada’s Peak Freaks Cancel Everest 2015 Trip

The Canadian guiding company Peak Freaks, a Himalayan guiding company since 1983, announced canceling its 2015 trip up Mount Everest. They cited safety concerns and unpredictable changes in rules for mountaineering permits, changing weather patterns and political instability as
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Dawn Wall’s Pitch 15: The Battle; The Project

Kevin Jorgeson has attempted pitch 15, a 5.14d traverse, on El Cap’s Dawn Wall project four times and each time he’s fallen off the two razor-sharp crimp-crux. Climbers and non-climbers alike are anxiously watching the historic project. Tommy Caldwell has free climbed
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Memoir of 1970’s Ontario Rock Climbing: Chaundy-Smart, A Youth Wasted Climbing

Dave Chaundy-Smart was one of the leading Canadian climbers in the 1980s. Along with Sam Cohen, Smart started Gripped Magazine in the late 90s. His forthcoming book titled A Youth Wasted Climbing will be available mid-2015. “Chaundy-Smart’s description of his youth has all the
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Dawn Wall: NPR Interview and Last Hard Pitch Sent

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are busy working on their Dawn Wall project. They talked to NPR’s Melissa Block from their ledges on Monday night.  Tommy Caldwell reported late Tuesday night that he’d sent the final 5.14 pitch. From Caldwell’s Facebook:
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Dawn Wall: 50 Crazy Comments From Around The Web

Dozens of news sources that usually do not cover rock climbing are covering the Dawn Wall attempt. The results are almost a priceless collection of comments and quotes that are so out in left field, they’re funny.  Kelly Cordes summed it up best on a Facebook post on Jan.
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Updated|Canadian Climber’s Blogs To Follow In 2015

Before social media, blogs were king. Everyone had one or two and some people had three. Now, fewer people use them, but those who do are worth following. Be sure to check in to see what these top Canadian climbers are up in 2015. Marieta Akalski The Toronto-based massage
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Three Climbers Die in Mexico

Three separate incidents have led to the deaths of three men in Mexico. It is peak climbing season and thousands travel there in January. American climber Charles King, 25, was climbing Pico de Orizaba, a 5,636-metre peak that straddles Puebla and Veracruz, when he and three
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Dawn Wall – Tommy Sends Pitches 15 and 16

Since Dec. 27, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson have been attempting to free the Dawn Wall. A project that is going into its seventh year. On Dec. 29, we reported that Caldwell and Jorgeson had climbed pitches one through nine, which are as follows: 5.12b, 5.13a, 5.13c, 5.12b,
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