Gripped Magazine

Mountain

New Hard Route on Castle Mountain

During the summer of 2014, Sam Eastman and Sam Lambert bolted and climbed a new route on Castle Mountain in Banff National Park. Both climbers helped Sonnie Trotter with Castles in the Sky 5.14a in 2013 and were inspired by the solid dolomite of the mountain. The result of their
Read More

Honnold Free Solos Univesity Wall

Alex Honnold made the first free-solo ascent of University Wall, one of Squamish’s most iconic routes, last week. Tim Auger, Hamish Mutch, Dan Tate and Glenn Woodward made the first ascent of University Wall over a number of sessions between 1965-1966 . In 1982, Peter
Read More

Baffin Island: Canadians climb new routes on big granite!

Four Canadians have returned from a month-long expedition into the heart of the Sam Ford Fjord. Crosby Johnston, Joshua Lavigne, Paul McSorley and Tony Richardson spent the better part of July and August in the Walker Arm of the Sam Ford Fiord on Baffin Island in Nunavut. By Paul
Read More

New Greenland Route: The Great Shark Hunt

Three climbers have climbed a new route on Greenland’s Shark’s Tooth: The Great Shark Hunt. Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber climbed The Great Shark Hunt on Aug. 18, a 900-metre wall of granite. In 2011, a Russian team made the first
Read More

New Routes in B.C.’s Leaning Towers

The Leaning Towers are a remote range of peaks in southeastern B.C. The area is seldom visited due to the long bushwhacking approach.   During mid-August, Michelle Kadatz, Katie Bono and Hannah Preston ventured in for their first trip. Despite bad weather, they managed to
Read More

Tragedy in Tuolumne

Avid Yosemite climber died shortly after his girlfriend Jainee Dial accepted his wedding proposal. Brad Parker, 36, died in a fall on Saturday, Aug. 16 after falling from Matthes Crest in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite, Calif. Parker was attempting to free-solo the Matthes Crest
Read More

Slacklife Gathers in Squamish

Slacklife B.C. Launches second Annual Assault on the Chief.  By Drew Copeland People from as far off as California and Montreal gathered at the North Gullies of the Stawamus Chief this weekend to walk the highlines.  The impetus behind the gathering is a group called Slacklife
Read More

Wide Awake in the Bugs: stellar-looking new route

Jon Walsh is one of Canada’s leading alpine climbers. In our current issue (Aug/Sept,) he features the Bugaboos in a a photo essay. This summer he headed to the seldom-visited Pigeon Feathers and found a choice route on Wide Awake Tower. Walsh and Michelle Katadtz added
Read More

Climbers die on Mont Blanc during tragic year

Six people went missing on the Mont Blanc massif and were discovered the following day, the group included one mountain guide. Death on Mont Blanc is unfortunatley an all-to-common occurrence. With over-eager guides and casual climbers crowding its slopes, the mountain is one of
Read More

From Around the World: new routes and wild K2 stats!

Here is an update on what has been going on outside of Canada this summer. On May 29 and 30, American climbers John Frieh and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of No Rest For the Wicked IV+ AI6 M7, a hard new route up the West Witches Tit in SE Alaska. For the full report
Read More