Gripped Magazine

Routes

Jamie Finlayson Sends His Hardest Problem To Date!

Squamish-based climber Jamie Finlayson has sent his first V13 and it was in challenging weather conditions. Finlayson sent Terminator V13 on July 9, despite less-than-perfect atmospheric conditions due to forest fires. After the send, Finlayson wrote, “There are very few
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New Long Moderate Rock Route in Jasper

Alberta’s Bedson Ridge gets a new route on surprisingly solid limestone. Jesse Milner and Ryan Titchener climbed Cypress Hill 5.10bR during the first week of July. The seven-pitch 400-metre route climbs the well-known Bedson Ridge about 50 kilometres east of Jasper.
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Film: Emilio Comici – Angel of the Dolomites

Emilio Comici was an Italian alpinist who pioneered a number of important techniques and routes. During the 1930s, Comici was one of Italy’s finest climbers. He made over 200 first ascents in the Dolomites, including the first ascent of the north face of the Cima Grande in
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Transition Film Preview: Dave MacLeod Makes Difficult First Ascent

A sneak peak at Dave MacLeod making the first ascent of Toast E7 6c at Suidhe Biorach, Isle of Skye. This was filmed during shooting for the upcoming film Transition featuring Natalie Berry and Dave MacLeod, Transition Film Preview – Toast E7 6c 1st Ascent from Hot Aches
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New Colorado Moderate Alpine Route

The new route climbs the Aiguille de Fleur in Rocky Mountain National Park. The four-pitch 5.9 called Victory Garden climbs an impressive wall, which was first climbed in 1978 via the West Face route. The new route up the west face was climbed by Michael Goodhue and Tim Davis on
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Four Bighorn Highway Alpine Rock Moderates

The Bighorn Highway has long been an Alberta go-to climbing destination. Bighorn Highway is the name given to the 66-kilometre Highway 40 in Kananaskis Country that runs north to south from Barrier Mountain to King Creek. Kananaskis Country is a system of 10 provincial parks in
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First Female Ascent of Denali Grade Six

Chantel Astorga and Jewell Lund have returned from their first female ascent of the Denali Diamond. On June 24, the Denali National Park field report read, “This news just in of a notable ascent: American climbers Chantel Astorga and Jewell Lund made the first female ascent
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10 Great Ascents in Canada From the Past Century

No better way to celebrate Canada Day than to look back at 100 years and 10 great ascents on Canadian soil. In 1896, Ha Ling made the first ascent of the most westward peak in the Ehagay Nakoda range south of Canmore. The peak now has a number of classic route routes, read about
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Watch Jonathan Siegrist climbing Le Cadre Nouvelle

American crusher Jonathan Siegrist redpoints Le Cadre Nouvelle 5.14d at Ceuse, France. Siegrist was in the news in June, 2014 for his send of Realization 5.15a. In the spring of 2015, Siegrist returned to France for the send of Adam Ondra’s variation to Le Cadre, called Le
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Adventure on Mount Bute to Free 50-Pitch School of Rock

Jason Ammerlaan, Nathan MacDonald and Luke Neufeld have returned from B.C.’s remote Mount Bute after having freed the School of Rock. Ammerlaan, MacDonald and Neufeld spent two days on the 1,900-metre route climbing and a third day descending. “We were feeling lucky
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