Gripped Magazine

Routes

Kogarashi: New Alpine Route on Northeast Face of Rockies’ Storm Mountain

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani have spent that last month alpine climbing in the Canadian Rockies and finished things off with a new route on Storm Mountain 3,191 metres. Toshiyuki and Tani climbed their new route up the northeast face of Storm Mountain this past weekend. They
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New Delhi Cliff: Two New Squamish Multi-Pitch Routes

Squamish locals have been busy this spring developing some great looking new climbs. The New Delhi Cliff is right of the Top Shelf and left of the Barbarian Wall and has two new multi-pitch 5.11s that were climbed this spring. Approach as Top Shelf for 15 minuntes and then head
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Ethan Pringle Sends Jumbo Love 5.15b

A week ago, we reported that Ethan Pringle was busy projecting the Clark Mountain test-piece Jumbo Love, a route he first tried nearly five years ago. Making the most of the recent good weather at California’s Clark Mountain, Pringle is closer with ever session to making
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New 5.12 Roof on Squamish’s Fjord Wall

Every year, Squamish gets a handful of quality difficult, steep new routes and Taran Ortlieb has The White Raven 5.12b to this year’s list. Paul McSorley and Ortlieb developed a new crag across the highway and 100 metres north of Murrin Park called the Fjord Guard. Follow
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Conrad Anker Completes Zion Climb Started 24 Years Ago

The Temple of Sinewava wall in Zion National Park rises over 300 metres and is a desert landmark with it’s sometimes free-falling waterfall. Conrad Anker teamed up with David Lama to complete a project he first attempte with Doug Heinrich in the early 1990’s. The
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Watch Paul Robinson Climb Hard Boulders in Colorado

Watch Paul Robinson climb Lost in Space V12 in Rocky Mountain National Park and the first ascent of Log Cabins V12 in St. Vrain. Follow Robinson on Instagram: A photo posted by Paul Robinson (@paulrobinson87) on May 15, 2015 at 8:16am PDT
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New Hard Route At Ontario’s Eagle’s Nest

Peter Hoang just sent a project that was equipped by Matthew Sapiecha in 2014 and named it Van Gogh’s Ear. “Dude, can you check out my ear?” said Sapiecha after a directional nut pupped out and hit his head during the route cleaning stage of the project. “I’m
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Brette Harrington Repeats Historical Californian 5.13+ Crack

Brette Harrington spends most of her time in Squamish, but the American climber is no stranger to other world-class areas including Patagonia and Yosemite. She recently made a likely second-female-ascent of a California classic. Two weeks ago, Harrington sent Grand Illusion, the
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Proud New Line on the Mooses Tooth

Canadian Alik Berg and American Skiy Detray are returning to their respected homes on either side of the border after a team effort bagged them a proud new line in Alaska. Berg and Detray made headlines this year when they made the second winter ascent of the Greenwood/Locke M6
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Japanese Team Climbs Mount Temple’s Snowy North Face

Yamada Toshiyuki and Takeshi Tani are Japanese climbers currently based in the Canadian Rockies.  The two alpinists have been making quick work of some of the area’s most classic big alpine routes. A few weeks ago, they made a rare ascent of The Wild Thing 1,300 m M7 WI5 on
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