Gripped Magazine

Routes

Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter’s Big Canadian Route

In 2011, Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter teamed up for the unclimbed east face of Banff’s Mount Louis. In light of the Dawn Wall, we are sharing this video from 2011 about Caldwell and Trotter establishing The Shining. Trotter and Caldwell redpointed The Shining 5.13c/d,
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Vid: Mount Euclid’s First Ascent

Mount Euclid is a granite peak in the Paparoa Ranges on the West Coast of New Zealand. On Jan. 10, 2015, Peter Joynt and Alastair McDowell made the first ascent of the 250-metre south face in seven pitches. The Paparoa Ranges Mt Euclid South Face – The First Ascent from
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Wadi Rum Old and New

In December 2014, Jozo Kristoffy and Martin Krasnansky climbed the new route Fatal Attraction 5.13 450 metres in Wadi Rum (Valley of the Moon), near the lost city of Petra. Planet Mountain reports that Kristoffy and Krasnansky spent a month in Jordan. On the Northeast Dome in the
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Power Animal V13

Watch Ethan Pringle attempt and send one of the Buttermilks proudest lines, Chris Sharma’s Power Animal V13. “Please excuse all the screaming,” wrote Pringle. Power Animal from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.
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New Hard Mixed Route in Colorado

The sending duo of Jesse Huey and Ryan Vachon are no strangers to hard mixed routes. This is the first of 2015 for the two Colorado-based climbers. Huey and Vachon climbed the new Subterfuge on Camp Bird Road near Ouray, Colorado on Jan.13, 2015. Vachon recently placed seventh at
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Nalle Hukkataival Sends The Nest and More

Nalle Hukkataival is one of the world’s strongest boulderers, he recently climbed The Nest V15 on his trip to Red Rocks. Hukkataival arrived in Red Rocks a week ago and has since climbed: Reflecting Pool V13, Stand and Deliver V11, The Nest V15 and a number of easier
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Out of the Shadows, a Bouldering Film

Andy White and Clayton Arnall are busy working on Out of the Shadows after the success of their first film The Fileds. The Fields was seen all over the world, in part to it being a finalist in the Vancouver International Film Festival. Article on New V10 Routes in Okanagan 
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Dawn Wall Day 15: Momentum! Jorgeson Sends Pitch 16 and 17

The Dawn Wall show continued on Jan. 10, as the climbers pushed hard on day 15. Kevin Jorgeson sent the last of the 5.14 pitches. As the days go by, more and more people are making the trip to watch Tommy Caldwell and Jorgeson project the Dawn Wall. Neither climber has stood on
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Big Bloc Send! From Dirt Grows The Flowers

Manuel Brunn repeated Dave Graham’s From dirt grows the flowers, V15 at Chironico, Switzerland. Manuel has climbed many V15s and 5.14ds over the years and he is stoked to start the year with Flowers after a number of tries last year. From Dirt Grows The Flowers 8C from
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Adam Ondra Onsights 5.14+

In 2011, Adam Ondra went on an unstoppable onsight spree in northern Spain, managing a stunning five 5.14+ onsights. Five! Bernardo Gimenez documents Ondra’s onsighting at the mega-crag of Oliana and he was fortunate enough to be rigged and ready when Ondra onsighted Mind
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