Gripped Magazine

West Coast

New Six-Pitch Route in Squamish

There is a new six-pitch route at the popular Shannon Falls area in Squamish. Jean-Marc Savoie, Ryan Larkin and Paul Greenwood have climbed a new six-pitch 5.11a at Shannon Falls called Charlotte’s Ride to the Sky. The route adds five pitches to the existing classic Cardhu
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Solid Attempt by West Coasters in Vancouver Island Alpine

Philip Stone, who brought us a recent feature on Quadra Island rock climbing in Gripped magazine, has made a bold attempt at a new island route. Along with Ryan Van Horn and Hunter Lee, Stone returned to a route he first tried in 1993 with Greg Shea up the east ridge of Elkhorn
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New Hard Bugaboo Free Route is Reinhold Pussycat

The Bugaboos have been been abuzz this year with a number of hard new free routes. The latest was by Bruce Miller and Chris Weidner and it’s called Reinhold Pussycat 5.12c, which they first climbed in 2006 at 5.11 A2. In the 2007 American Alpine Journal, Weidner wrote,
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A List of Hard and Steep Canadian Routes

Canada has some hard routes, from burly to long and technical 5.14s. Here is a select list of some of the hardest. By Sophia Vlahos Canadian climbing legend, Sonnie Trotter, has largely influenced the world of climbing in Canada by establishing and making first ascents on
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Jamie Finlayson Sends Silent Menace/Smell the Glove

Jamie Finlayson is one of Canada’s strongest climbers and he recently sent a long-time project in Squamish. By Jamie Finlayson I tried this route off and on for four years, but the nearby route, Dreamcather 5.14d, had always distracted me. This season, I decided to put some
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North America’s “Highest Unclimbed Peak” is Climbed in Yukon

Two South American climbers are the first to stand on Malaspina 3,776 metres in the Saint Elias Mountains in Yukon. Their 1,900-metre climb has difficulties up to 65 degrees. Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada climbed the remote mountain as part of their Uncharted Project. The
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New Hard Route on Squamish’s Sheriff’s Badge

Tony McLane and Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent of The Daily Universe, a new 5.12b up the Sheriff’s Badge. The Daily Universe is an extension to the already classic 5.12a route on the Sheriff’s Badge called The Daily Planet. The new nine-pitch route is the first
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Climbing Mouses Tooth: Splitter West Coast Alpine Route

Nic Vissers and Ryan Larkin recently made an ascent of the Mouses Tooth up North Joffre Creek near Pemberton, B.C.  The remote 11-pitch 5.11 starts with a 5.10d that has a steep crux. The following pitches become more and more splitter until a perfect hand crack that climbs a
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New Hard Okanagan Boulder Problem is V12

Andy White continues the trend of climbing hard new problems on steep boulders in the Okanagan. Over the past few years, the Okanagan Valley has become one of Western Canada’s go-to bouldering areas and White has been at the forefront of development. “A couple nights
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Watch Canadians Climb Baffin’s Beluga Spire

Paul McSorely, Tony Richardson, Joshua Lavigne and Crosby Johnston travel to the remote Baffin Island with the goal of a first ascent of the North Face of the Beluga Spire. Prior to even leaving for the expedition their local Clyde River guide, Levi suggested they not even make
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