Gripped Magazine

West Coast

The Route: Squamish’s Hanging Garden 5.10c

In 2012, this old 1960’s three-pitch route was scrubbed clean by Kris Wild and has since become somewhat of a Squamish must-climb. On the Squamish climbing forum in 2012, Wild wrote, “On Sunday March 25, I completed the unearthing of Hanging Gardens. It’s
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Squamish’s famous finger crack: Exasperator

IFMGA mountain guide Crosby Johnston talks about one of his favourite Squamish 5.10 rock climbs, Exasperator Crack. It is one of the best single-pitch routes in Squamis, located at the Grand Wall base, it is 45 m of technical finger crack climbing. It was first climbed in 1960 by
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Dan Beland Sends Skaha Test-Pieces

Dan Beland has been on a tear in Skaha over the last few weeks. Sending some of the area’s hardest routes, the Victoria, B.C. climber recently sent his last project of his trip. Skaha has been busy this spring with near-perfect weather and excellent climbing conditions.
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Watch Two Strong Sends at Murrin Park: MIA and Summoning

Missing in Action V8 and Summoning V12 are two of Murrin Park’s classic problems.  Jamie Finlayson of Squamish recently sent Summoning and said, “Great problem, so physical. Slap and squeeze. Definitely went to battle with this one. Actually slipped off the top when I
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Watch Canadians Climb Baffin’s Beluga Spire

Paul McSorely, Tony Richardson, Joshua Lavigne and Crosby Johnston travel to the remote Baffin Island with the goal of a first ascent of the North Face of the Beluga Spire. Prior to even leaving for the expedition their local Clyde River guide, Levi suggested they not even make
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Canada’s Future Behemoth Mixed Climb

Gord McArthur is one of Canada’s leading mixed climbers in competition and outdoor climbing.  McArthur discovered a massive cave near him hometown of Cranbrook, B.C. Over the last few seasons, between world cups, he’s been developing what he said will be one of the
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Film: Jesse Huey Climbs The Shadow

In 1988, Peter Croft onsighted the first free ascent of The Shadow, an eye-catching 50-metre dihedral on Squamish’s Chief that goes at 5.13b. Watch Jesse Huey as he does a rare free-ascent of the legendary line. Brette Harrington Climbs The Shadow  
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Video: Ice Climbing on B.C.’s Duffey Lake Road

Watch Ryan Larkin and Jean-Marc Savoi climb Rambles Right on the Duffey Lake Road north of Whistler. Despite a very warm West Coast winter there was still some ice to be found. Climbers were still swinging the tools as recently as mid-March at Wedgemont Lake. West Coast Ice
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Miles Adamson’s New V9 at Gonzales Creek

Watch Miles Adamson, one of Canada’s boldest highball boulderers, climb his new route Algorithm V9 at Gonzales Creek. Adamson has climbed a number of hard boulder problems in and around Squamish. Visit his Sendage card to check out his latest accomplishments. A few years
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New West Coast Winter Mixed/Ice Routes

Jason Kruk, Tony Richardson and Kye Peterson have climbed two new mixed routes in Garibaldi Provincial Park, B.C. The new routes are on a crag above Wedgemount Lake that’s been called Rethel Headwall. On March 4 and 5, the trio climbed No Cupcakes (NC) WI4+ 140 metres and
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