Marieta Akalski jumped onto headlines this summer after proving she is quickly becoming one of North America’s strongest women.

The Toronto-based Akalski became the fifth Canadian woman to climb 5.14a when she sent Geminis in Rodellar, Spain. Five days later, on Oct. 6, she sent her second 5.14a called Ixeia, also in Rodellar.

“I tried this climb two weeks ago, but the weather turned and the rain storms kept the climb wet for weeks,” said Akalski. “I got back to it three days ago and spent four tries working out the cryptic beta.

Akalski’s first 5.14a

“I hung three times my last climbing day and I was having a bit of a hard time with the middle section which is not the crux, but was excited to see if my new method would work better when I come back fresh.”

Akalski’s sendage card

Akalski took one rest day and sent it first try the following day.

“I was a bit shocked when I got through what I considered my crux and then I just kept it together for the upper crux which requires a lot of precision to hit a small slot on the head wall. I feel pretty lucky to have been able to do it in just six tries.”

Marieta Akalski  Photo Michael Watson

Marieta Akalski climbing in Rodellar (not Ixeia) Photo Michael Watson

Rodellar climbing video:

 

 


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