The Best Climbing Gear According to Our Editors – April

Built on a moderately downturned asymmetric last, the Instinct VS delivers the performance climbers demand when attempting challenging routes and boulder problems. The shoe features a relatively soft midsole for sensitivity and smearing, and thanks to the thin slab of Vibram XS Edge rubber in the forefoot (XS Grip 2 for the women’s version), it can also deftly handle standing on small edges. The top of the shoe is shod with a generous patch of rubber for hooking, scumming, and other steep-angle shenanigans, while the single hook-and-loop closure strap ensures the shoe stays on during powerful heel-hooking. On the women’s model, Scarpa specs a somewhat lower-volume heel for a more secure fit.

Free-climbing technical shoes for cracks, big-walls and Yosemite-scale outings. Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold got together to improve this big-wall classic, with a new single piece rand for added durability and thinner webbing in the lacing harness for more comfort while jamming. The mid-height cut protects your ankles and strategically placed foam helps make long splitters endurable if not comfortable.

Harnesses

The Momentum harness packs a lot of value at a reasonable price and should appeal to new climbers. Black Diamond specs a Dual Core Construction waistbelt for support, comfort, and breathability and adds four gear loops for when you venture outside. The leg loops feature a unique elastic and plastic slider adjustment that provides a wide range of adjustment when compared to traditional elastic-panel leg loops. Like all modern harnesses, the Momentum has a pre-threaded double-back buckle for increased safety and easy waist adjustments.

Climbers looking to push their grades will appreciate the Hirundos. This tried-and-true sport climbing harness continues to deliver the comfort, low weight and non-restrictive fit valued by climbers attempting challenging routes. The harness features Petzl’s Fuseframe construction that reduces pressure points while providing solid support. For durability, Petzl specs lightweight TPU overlays on the back of the leg loops and uses a Dynema for the belay loop as well as tie-in points. A silky-smooth aluminum double-back buckle allows for effortless waist adjustment, while the four gear loops provide carrying capacity for large trad-cragging and sport climbing racks.

 

Quickdraws

Sport climbing can be hard on draws, and most of us have a few that are either gouged out by hangers or worn down by the rope. So, rather than risk a dirt nap, consider updating your current quickdraw rack with the BD’s Hotforge Quickdraw Pack. Consisting of a straight and bent gate Hotforge carabiner and a beefy polyester dogbone, this draw offers excellent performance during desperate clips. The biners feature hot-forged construction, which allows BD to move material where it is most needed, resulting in lower weight and superb durability. The relatively simple-looking dogbone has an integrated rubber Straitjacket insert that prevents the bent gate biner from shifting during clips. Get some of these draws and put your mind at ease when you’re racing to the anchors.

The Djinn Axess quickdraw has to one of the best-kept secrets in the climbing world. Built to the same exacting standards as Petzl’s hyper-premium Spirit Express draws, the Djinns deliver excellent durability and greater internal space, making them a perfect choice for sport climbing or for climbers with larger paws. The carabiners feature a large body for easy handling even when wearing gloves, while the I-beam cross-section sheds some grams without comprising strength. These are excellent all-around draws with an optimal blend of weight, size, and durability, and they will provide solid service when cragging.

 

Ropes

The 9.8 mm VR9 hits the sweet spot for a general-purpose climbing rope. Not only is it able to shrug off the abuse of extended top-roping and constant sport-climbing falls, but it’s also sufficiently light and slim for harder redpoints and multi-pitch climbs. Sterling has also added a  DryCore treatment to the inner yarns to help prevent excessive fibre abrasion and reduce water absorption.

With its 9.8mm diameter and balanced handling, the Boa Eco delivers exceptional durability and performance, making it an excellent choice for indoor climbing, clipping bolts, and plugging gear. Perhaps the most unique aspect of the Boa Eco is its sheath construction. Edelrid utilizes left-over sheath yarns from its manufacturing process to construct the Boa’s colourful sheath. And because the yarns are harvested from multiple random ropes, the Boa’s sheath also sports a random one-off design. It’s also worth noting that while rope’s sheath yarns are repurposed from other ropes, the Boa’s sheath has no splices. This ensures the rope will handle and perform like more conventionally manufactured ropes.

 

Training

Hone your rack weight by 25% without leaving crucial pieces behind. These breakthrough Ultralight Camalots have less material in the lobes, Dyneema® slings and Dyneema cord in place of the heavy steel swages. What remains is the dual-axle design, unbeatable range and the opportunity to use them as passive placements.

Stoppers No. 4-13 are an essential for every trad rack, designed with a transverse taper that permits sideways placements in flares and shallow seams. Anodized by size, they’re quickly identifiable and rounded edges make for easy removal. Each Stopper is equipped with a durable, galvanized steel cable.

 

Helmets

The Black Diamond’s Vapor helmet offers exceptional impact protection while remaining at the forefront of ultralight design. Black Diamond starts with a polycarbonate crown and adds an ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) insert. This new insert offers a 44% higher strength-to-weight ratio than the previous Kevlar version. The result is a 40% reduction in the weight of this component without compromising protection for the climber. The rest of the helmet is constructed with moulded Expanded Polypropylene (EPP), providing excellent impact absorption and significantly greater durability than traditionally used EPS. The Vapor’s large vents allow excess heat to easily escape, while the minimalist adjustment system easily accommodates a variety of head shapes.

Easy to carry and a pleasure to wear, the Zodiac 3R is lightweight and stable. For approaches and descents, the straps and cradle fold into the helmet so it saves space in your pack. The Wing-Fit system has a rear adjustment dial that lets you adjust the fit quickly and easily. Inner and outer shells made from recycled material. Large vents ensure a constant supply of fresh air. Innovative under-ear closure keeps your chin and neck buckle-free. Integrated headlamp clips

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