Americans Climb New Route in the Himalaya
Far away from the crowded base camps of commercial expeditions are still real alpinists gunning for hard new routes
Last week, Americans Patrick Johnson and Patrick Gephart climbed a new route up the north face of Tengkangpoche (6,487 m) in the Rolwaling Himal in alpine style.
“”Several seracs and crevasses guarded the final ridge, but were able to pass with careful route finding,” Johnson told The Himalayan Times. “We summited in the clouds at 3:30 p.m., overjoyed with our success.” They graded their 1,500-metre route M3 WI3+ and called it Sunshine Spring Roll.
“A final pitch of WI3 led us to the east ridge,” said Johnson, noting, “we bivouacked at 6,000 m and endured a sleepless night with never ending wind.”
Tenkangpoche has long been the focus of alpinists, as several of its aspects offer steep granite walls. In fall 2021, Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn made the first ascent of the huge north pillar of Tengkangpoche. Watch a film about their climb below.
Tengkangpoche 2021
Check out the latest buyer's guide:
