Canadians were busy in 2013, establishing new routes and repeating test-pieces. This is the second list of highlights, here are the first 2013 Canadian Highlights.
Josie Hetyie is 36-year-old Vancouver police officer. Relatively unknown across Canada, she was the first Canadian woman to climb 5.14 in Canada. This year she climbed Dinosaur in the Highway, 5.14a, at Horne Lake, having done her first 5.14a in 2012. “I’ve been climbing since 1996, have done alpine, ice and trad, and over last 12 years focused on sport climbing. I used to compete in triathlons and running and some ultra-endurance events. I train indoors January to April and then climb outside locally and around the world for the rest of the year.” Her project for 2014 is Adato, 5.14b, at Horne Lake. “Limestone climbing is my favourite and my forte. I am not very powerful, but really good at kneebars, scums and the full body nature of it. I am most dedicated to my projects and never give up whether a climb takes me 10 tries or 100,” Said Hetyie. We had reported that Vikki Weldon was the second Canadian woman to climb 5.14, but it was Hetyie who quietly became the second Canadian woman to climb the grade.
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Evan Hau is one of Canada’s strongest climbers. In August he became the fifth person to climb Bunda de Fora, 5.14d, at Acephale, and only the third since a key hold broke off, increasing the crux from V11 to V13. He is the seventh Canadian to climb 5.14d. In June he did the second ascent of Josh Muller’s Prime Time, 5.14c, at Acephale. His 2013 climbs are impressive, the first ascent of Angst, 5.14a, repeats of The Shine, 5.14a and the Illusionist, 5.14b, Stone Temple Pilot, 5.13d, Democracia, 5.13d and a dozen more 5.13s. He also did the first ascent of Free Hookup, 5.13b, and Necrophylia, 5.13a. Early in the year he climbed The Mandala, stand, V12.
Derek Galloway, the author of Bow Valley Sport guidebook, established a four-pitch sport route in Echo Canyon, The Temptress, 5.13b, which is unrepeated. It follows a steep line up blue-streaked limestone, the rock impeccable. The pitches are 45 metres and the position stunning.
Squamish local Jamie Finlayson has established himself as one of the coast’s strongest climbers. In August he did the third ascent of Sonnie Trotter’s 2012 route Battle of Evermore, 5.14a, Steve “Manboy” Townshend did the second ascent. In September, Finlayson did the first ascent of Shaving with a Knife, 5.13c, at Murrin Park. He has made repeat ascents of Captain America, 5.14b,Patience, 5,14a, Pulse, 5.14a, Permanent Waves, 5.13d. In December he joined Tim Emmett for his first ice climbing experience and assisted with the first ascent of 100 Per Cent, M10.
Will Gadd, Will Mayo, Pat Delaney, and John Freeman have established a new M11 route called Nophobia in the Ghost River Valley area near Canmore. The five-pitch route overhangs about 50 metres.
Greg Tos established Silent Auction, a five-pitch 5.12, on Grotto Mountain. The route had a number of repeats.
Year of the Snake, Squamish
Jeremy Smith climbed a new route on the Cacodemon Boulder which is on the forest floor at the base of the Chief, Year of the Snake, 5.13bR.
Baffin Lavigne Brothers
Joshua and Delano Lavigne travelled to Baffin Island from July 16 to August 2. They climbed a new route on Gauntlet Peak called Violet Ridge, 5.9, 400 m, and a new route on Mount Turnweather, Butter Knife Ridge, 5.12, AI3.
Jen Olson was in Bozeman for the annual ice festival. With her partner, Tim McAllister, she did the first female ascent of Winter Dance, WI5+, M8, in Hyalite.