Craig McGee has established a fun looking 40-metre 5.11 at Back of the Lake in Alberta.

McGee established Back in the Saddle 5.11b at the Outhouse Area. The route is between Public Enemy and Pub Night.

McGee said that because of the length of the route he has installed a number of anchors to lower off, depending on the length of your rope.

“The upper sections are fixed with chain draws and carabiners to make it easier to get back to the station you desire and to cut down on rope drag, please leave the biners,” said McGee, “Clipping all the chain draws keeps the rope in a better position to reduce the rope drag, if you don’t clip the pointless looking one on the ledge it makes the rope pull at an odd angle and get caught up in your feet.”

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If your doing the whole thing in one pitch it is best to back clean the first three bolts then extend six and seven to reduce rope drag. “Personally, if I had a shorter rope I would climb all the way to the top, then back clip/climb to anchor C (Look above you in the roof), this anchor is on a large ledge. Simply clip into this anchor, pull your rope and lower to whichever station works for your rope length,” said McGee.

 

Back in the Saddle

Back in the Saddle

The last section of Back in the Saddle  Photo Kris Irwin

The last section of Back in the Saddle Photo Kris Irwin

Source: TABVAR


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