Patagonia, 2013, Cerro Marconi Central – La SuperWhillans

The season is off to its typical “old Patagonia” start, with extreme wind and weather. It has not stopped climbers from ascending a number of new lines

Colin Haley and Rolando Garibotti have climbed a new aesthetic, moderate route. The route is on Cerro Marconi Central, which is part of the Marconi peaks, a seldom visited area in Patagonia. The obviousness of La SuperWhillans speaks to the remoteness of the Marconi Peaks. This is Haley’s second new route of the season, the first being El Lobito on Aguja Volonqui.

From Haley’s blog
The climb is fun and aesthetic, and I would definitely recommend it to others, but I think it requires careful evaluation of conditions to make it a nice climb. More than anything else, it is worthwhile simply because the seldom-visited Marconi peaks are wild, beautiful, and much more “alpine” than many of the other mountains around. We have named the route “La SuperWhillans,” for it’s strong resemblance in form to Aguja Poincenot’s famous Whillans Ramp, and also a play on the local classic, “La Supercanaleta.” I would estimate that the vertical gain from the bergschrund to the summit is roughly 600-700 m, with difficulties of up to 70 degrees, and one pitch of AI3/M3.

article continues after advertisement

Cerro Marconi Central – La SuperWhillans  Photo Colin Haley

Cerro Marconi Central – La SuperWhillans Photo Colin Haley

Traversing from near the top of the ramp to the AI3/M3 gully.  Photo Colin Haley

Traversing from near the top of the ramp to the AI3/M3 gully. Photo Colin Haley

An awesome sunrise on the morning of the 18th. The low peak on the far left is Cerro Trente Anniversario, and the high peak on the right is Cerro Chalten (aka Fitz Roy)  Photo Colin Haley

An awesome sunrise on the morning of the 18th. The low peak on the far left is Cerro Trente Anniversario, and the high peak on the right is Cerro Chalten (aka Fitz Roy) Photo Colin Haley

Aguja Val Biois

On Christmas Eve, Haley and Joel Kauffman attempted the east chimney of Aguja Val Biois, but were turned around because of bad weather.

Joel Kauffman on the first pitch of Aguja Val Biois' east chimney. Photo Colin Haley

Joel Kauffman on the first pitch of Aguja Val Biois’ east chimney. Photo Colin Haley

 

 


Related