Two new pitches have been added to the top of the Squamish Buttress on the West Coast’s granite landmark.
Drew Dochstader and Paul Ludolph have cleaned and climbed two 5.10 pitches above the last pitch of the classic route Squamish Buttress.
From Squamish climbing: The new Shelter from the Storm route, will add two more pitches to your day instead of finishing at the traditional tree belay at the top of first peak. Instead of belaying at the tree, traverse left on the ledge below, approximately 20 m (there are good spots for protecting the traverse) until you reach a bolted anchor. Pitch one is a 5.10- sustained vertical left facing layback 20 m, offering perfect finger locks and great pro. Clip a directional bolt as soon as you top out onto the first ledge and follow two more ledges until you reach a bolted anchor. Pitch two is a burly 5.10- that starts with a bouldery move into off fingers until you reach the tree in the crack. Make your way up past two pods until you reach a sitting belay at a bolted anchor.
Bring a single rack to two inches, double .4, .5, .75
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*The top out requires a really high step with poor hands, but is well protected.
*Ledge traversing to the bottom of pitch one has been dug out but still requires some final cleaning, so be cautious of any organic material
*There is a very thin crack to the right of the second pitch which is a closed project.