Marc Andre-Leclerc has free climbed an amazing new climb on the North Walls on The Chief.
By Marc Andre-Leclerc
I finished freeing the first six pitches of Chris Geisler’s epic aid line The Last Temptation of St Anthony on the North Walls of the Chief.
This is an incredibly beautiful line, one of the great lines of Squamish in my fully biased opinion. Pitch four is a contender for the one of the boldest leads on the Chief and was climbed in headpoint style.
The rest of the pitches were cleaned on rappel then freed on lead, except for pitch two which is a variation from the original line that was bolted on aid by myself in 2012.
Pitch three is one of the best gear leads of it’s grade in Squamish and is worth checking out for its own sake. A single 70 m can get you down from the top of pitch three with some directionals to reach the second belay.
Belays are bolted and most have chains.
The route is located just right of Alaska Highway and begins with The Forgotten Flake.