By Marc Andre-Leclerc on squamishclimbing.com:
I finished freeing the first six pitches of Chris Geisler’s epic aid line The Last Temptation of St Anthony on the North Walls of the Chief. This is an incredibly beautiful line, one of the great lines of Squamish in my fully biased opinion. Pitch four is a contender for the one of the boldest leads on the Chief and was climbed in headpoint style. The rest of the pitches were cleaned on rappel then freed on lead, except for pitch two which is a variation from the original line that was bolted on aid by myself in 2012. Pitch three is one of the best gear leads of it’s grade in Squamish and is worth checking out for its own sake. A single 70 m can get you down from the top of pitch three with some directionals to reach the second belay. Belays are bolted and most have chains.
The route is located just right of Alaska Highway and begins with The Forgotten Flake.
‘The Last Temptation of St Anthony’ (P1-6) 5.13a R/X
FA: Chris Geisler (A4, Summer 2000)
FFA: Marc-Andre Leclerc (P3,5,6 Summer 2011,P2 June 2012, P4 October 2013)
P1: The Forgotten Flake – Climb the pleasant wide handcrack flake to the large roof, then hand traverse right and turn an arete to belay from a bolt and a 2’inch cam. 5.10a
P2: Interesting face moves lead left in an exposed position above the lip of the roof. 5.11c bolts.
P3: Shifting Gears – Climb the beautiful arching splitter to a wild crux in the overhanging fingercrack. From a good rest in an alcove hand traverse right in an exposed position (rope drag!!!) to reach a classy right facing corner. Bust out the RP’s and stem up the corner passing a hanging station at its end to step left to a bolted anchor equipped with chains. The crux is brief but very burly. 5.13a.
(Rap from here with a single 70 m for Shifting Gears 5.13a)
P4: Cerebral Fornication- This may be one of the most beautiful pitches of face climbing in the known universe, but sports runouts similar to the Bachar-Yerian at a harder grade. This pitch was freed in headpoint style. Climb an incredible white dyke splitting a featureless black face for 50 m. There are three bolts to protect the first 30 m of sustained hard climbing, after that the difficulty relents but the gear remains sparse at best, an easy traverse left reaches the belay. Bring some cams to three inches and wires/RPs. 5.12d R/X.
Pull up a fixed line through some bushes to reach P5.
P5: Climb easy cracks to a small roof then traverse right around it. Enjoy 15 m of beautiful hand jamming behind the aesthetic flake before a short lived undercling crux reaches a nice belay ledge. 5.10d.
P6: Zephyr Cookie Power – Walk left to reach some odd flake features. Layback moves and strenous gear placements lead to a powerful crux and an excellent mantle into Astro Ledge. Short and burly, a crucial RP prevents this pitch from being dangerous, find it! 5.12b.
Walk off via Astro Ledge and the North North Gully, or rap with two ropes.
Photo Chris Christie