An Epic 5.14 Alpine Sport Climb in Colorado
Doubloons is featured in a new short film – it looks like one of the coolest 5.14s in the American alpine
Tanner Bauer and Chris Deuto made some of the few repeats of the iconic golden arete of Doubloons, a 5.14b sport climb in the Colorado alpine, last summer. First climbed by Ben Spannuth, the stunning route follow a natural line using slopers, sidepulls, crimps and even an alpine knee.
About the route, Deuto said, “A balancy intro quickly leads into the route’s lower boulder problem: a compression based sequence on temperature-dependent slopers and crimps. The hardest part (for me) about this crux is getting established onto the arete. A few more moves allow for turning the arete and catching a nice no-hands rest. Recover up, and launch into the upper crux, which utilizes the now slopey arete and several micro razorblade crimps. This crux ends with a final, committing throw into a jug undercling. A few more surprisingly hard moves lead to the finish.”
Found on Wind Tower high on Mount Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans), it’s one of the hardest routes in America at this elevation. Also on Wind Tower is a 5.9R and 5.12b sport route, which is said to have solid rock and ends at the summit.
Black Diamond has released a new short film about Bauer and Deuto’s time on Doubloons, watch below.
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