Five Must-Climb 5.10s in the Adirondacks

The Adirondack Mountains are found in the six-million-acre Adirondack Park, which covers over 20 per cent of the state of New York. There are over 100 peaks, including nearly 50 over 1,200 metres, and there are over 250 rock climbing areas.

The Adirondacks have roadside crags, remote cliffs, offer great rest-day activities like paddling and hiking, and fewer climbers than the more popular areas on America’s east coast. The best crags to climb at in spring are Hurricane, Deadwater and Pitchoff, while in summer you want to check out Chapel Pond, Avalanche Pass and Barkeater.

While most of the climbing has historically been trad, there have been several new bolted routes added to Lake George, Poke-o Moonshine and Silver Lake over the past decade. There’s even great bouldering found at Nine Corners, Snowy Mountain and Saranac Lake. Before going, be sure to pick up one of the guidebooks to the area, like Adirondack Rock by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas.

The Adirondacks have everything from classic slab routes to steep bolted lines and world-class boulders. If you’re looking for a less-busy climbing area to check out this summer then be sure to visit. Below are five must-climb 5.10 trad routes and a video showing just how rugged some of the climbing in the Adirondacks can be.

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5.10s to Climb

Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving: This 30-metre 5.10a, first climbed in the mid-1980s, follows 5.10 climbing to a run-out 5.7 jug-haul to the anchor.
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Blacksmith: This 40-metre 5.10a has a distinct crux below the first bolt above a few good cams. It has sustained climbing throughout.
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On The Loose: This 30-metre 5.10a, first climbed in the 1970s by Henry Barber, is an all-time classic. Follow the nearly perfect hand crack that has a few big holds along the way.
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Esthesia: This 30-metre wide crack delivers a big pump and requires a full rack of gear up to five inches. Use layback and offwidth techniques for the upper section.
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Roaches on the Wall: Another 30-metre classic, this 5.10+ has a tricky traverse, a fun roof, a sharp finger crack and a hard exit. Considered one of the best 5.10s in the Adirondacks.

Adirondacks Climbing