Utah’s Lindner’s Roof

Chris Healy recently sent Lindner’s Roof V9 in Moe’s Valley near St. George, Utah.

Chris Healy wrote the following about his send:

This is definitely one of my favorite projects. I almost wish it wasn’t over, but at the same time I’m glad I was able to make an ascent. It’s super aesthetic, with quality rock, and has some of the best movement I’ve done on rock. The battle for this rig was quite a bit different than anything I had done before because of a freak snow storm that left about 6 inches on the ground and on top of the bloc.

I had to wait for the snow to melt, and then for the melted snow to dry. At the time it seemed like it took forever to clear up. In reality it took about ten days. Once the boulder was dry everything came together perfectly and at an unexpected time too. I was using this drop knee beta to make the cross, which I could stick just fine but I couldn’t get out of the position the move put me in. I could do every other move besides this one. I continuously fell trying it and began to get discouraged thinking that I may have to take a break from this one and climb something else for a while. I decided to switch some things up and try some new methods, even if I didn’t think they’d work.

Moe’s Valley on Mountain Project

In the beginning I had low expectations of the method I ended up using. It involved bicycling the arete and doing a giant momentum based sit up to the hold you cross to. This was a little harder to learn but once I stuck the hold my body was in the perfect position for the next move. That beta was key for me. Without it I don’t know if I ever would have climbed this one. Soon after I worked that move a few more times I started trying from the bottom.

I don’t remember how much longer it took that day before I sent but it was fairly quick. I went from being discourage and feeling like I needed to move on to working out the puzzle and sending the problem within a matter of a couple of hours. In total I dedicated four sessions over the course of a month to this problem and I couldn’t be happier about it.