Today at World Championships: Heat Wave, Megos Out, Ondra In

Things started at 9 a.m. in Innsbruck with a cool breeze and warm sunrise as male competitors took to isolation for a long day of qualifications for bouldering.

The bouldering wall is outdoors and when the competition started, the air temp was 18C. A number of strong climbers topped the dynamic problems.

Jongwon Chon and Tomoa Narasaki topped all five early in the morning, but the cooler temps didn’t help Canadians advance past the first round, as Jason Holowach, Lucas Uchida, Sean McColl and Seb Lazure didn’t advance. McColl finished last for Canada in 80th.

My only top in Qualifiers, together with my zone on the first boulder should put me top 40. The round was quite tough for me stylistically, but I’m pretty happy with how it went! Next up speed practice tonight at 8pm for the men. I hope my three bleeding top stay sealed. @mec @gripitclimbing @musclemlkcan

A post shared by Jason Holowach (@jason.holowach) on Sep 12, 2018 at 5:40am PDT

Alex Megos, one of the best climbers in the world, also didn’t make the cut for semifinals and finished in 25th.

The top three climbers heading to finals are Jernej Kruder, Tomoa Narasaki and Jongwon Chon.

Fourth place finisher Adam Ondra started climbing at 1:35 p.m. because of his standing on the world stage.

I had been really stressed about the bouldering semis. I had known it for months that my starting number would be high and I would climb in the heat. I knew I had to climb very well in order to advance. I switched the on the fight mode and I am glad and very relieved to have made it and took the 4th place in my qualification group. Pic from @bjornpohl from the only problem that was still in the shade. @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @mytendon @montura_official

A post shared by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on Sep 12, 2018 at 8:35am PDT

It was nearly 30C out when he started and the sun was bouncing off the pads and onto the wall. Spectators hid in the shade while watching to endure the heat.

After the temps began to heat up, few climbers made it past the first move or two of any given problem. Ondra climbed four of the final five.

Semifinals and finals for men will be on Saturday and will start around noon local time.

Crusher @adam.ondra topped four qualifications problems, here he is on four! He advanced to semifinals but no Canadian men did. Super hot day! Vid @brandonpullan #ifsc #ifscwch #bouldering #grippedmagazine

A post shared by Gripped Magazine Comps (@grippedmagazinecomps) on Sep 12, 2018 at 5:29am PDT