10 Quick-Drying Boulders in Squamish

Looking to take advantage of dry weather windows this winter for some Squamish bouldering? With its limited tree cover, The Jungle sector in the Apron Boulders houses lots of problems that dry quickly after rain, and many of them are of exceptional quality. The area features a handful of V6’s that dry lickety-split, a few fun warm-ups to circuit, and a couple of Squamish’s best hard problems.

With a little bit of sun and wind, and a touch of luck, here are 10 popular quick-drying problems in The Jungle that you can hopefully get on this winter:

The Killing Floor Right V1: This problem starts standing and works up the edge of a slab to an engaging top-out. The landing isn’t ideal but the climbing is enjoyable. The problem to its right, Slice and Dice V1, makes for another great warm-up. The Snake Pit area directly to the north contains lots of fast-drying V0’s and V1’s too.

Alien Within V3: This one-move-wonder starts seated, matched on a shelf, and requires a long lock-off to reach the lip above. Shorter climbers may have to dyno to catch the lip. The lip can sometimes take longer to dry, but with a little bit of chalk and brushing, it should be good enough to go. A fun variation, Alien Skull V5, adds a shouldery, rightwards move before reaching for the lip.

The Sickle V3: This attractive piece of stone unfortunately doesn’t climb as good as it looks. A small boulder at its base creates an awkward, dabby start. That being said, once you figure out the seated start, the rest of the problem is a blast. It dries quickly and it’s stout for the grade.

Hummingbird V6: Likely one of the fastest drying problems in town, Hummingbird is short and fingery. The south-facing problem starts seated on left-facing side-pulls—a starting sequence that’s harder for the tall. After a few moves on crimps and scoops, a big throw to a good edge is required, which is harder for the short.

Hip Check V6: This funky, techy problem might leave you scratching your head. Starting on underclings and thin feet, lots of different beta can be used to reach the upper left-hand face and arete. It’s much more difficult than it looks. A very hard ungraded sit start was put up by Tim Doyle in 2020.

The Cutting Edge V6

This stunning problem is an Apron Boulders classic. Starting seated, traverse leftward along a very low lip using slopers, heels, and toes, eventually hitting the adjacent lip and arete. It’s best to get on this one in cold temps. Like Hummingbird V6, this problem faces south and sees lots of sun (when it’s not raining).

Gull Skull V6: Burly yet technical, it’s hard not to love this problem. It starts as for Alien Within V3, but then moves rightward to the arete using some big powerful moves. From there, small hand holds with bad feet get you to the top. Even though the problem is short in height, the landing below the top-out is very uneven and jagged—a few extra pads are a good idea.

The Giver V8: This unique problem starts deep in a narrow pit across from Gull Skull, and is surprisingly quick to dry. While the dab factor can be high, once you get the beta sorted you’ll enjoy powerful compression bumping to a fun, juggy arete top-out. This problem has gone by other names in the past.

The Serpent V10: A “Top 100” problem in Marc Bourdon’s Squamish Bouldering guidebook, The Serpent is a technical classic. It starts seated matched on a wide pinch. Small crimps and big moves follow, requiring expert body positioning and footwork. An improved landing has been built up in recent years, which should give you more confidence for the techy, high exit. This problem is found just to the left of Hummingbird V6, and also sees a lot of sun.

The Method V12: The Method is one of Squamish’s most iconic problems. Like The Serpent, the problem is also a member of the famous Squamish “Top 100” list and features highly technical climbing. The problem starts on crimps on the slab or on a rail out to the right, passing a short roof, undercling, and huge sloper to reach the high top-out. The Method is a coveted Squamish tick and long-term project for many.

First Ascentionist Information

• The Killing Floor Right V1 – Andrew Boyd, Mike Stewart & Stu Worrall (2000)
• Alien Within V3 – Stu Worrall (1997)
• The Sickle V3 – Trent Hoover (2001)
• Hummingbird V6 – Tyler Jordan (2000)
• Hip Check V6 – Jack Fieldhouse (2000)
• The Cutting Edge V6 – Stu Worrall (1997)
• Gull Skull V6 – Unknown
• The Giver V8 – Tim Doyle (2008)
• The Serpent V10 – Tyler Jordan (2000)
• The Method V12 – Tim Doyle (2009)

FA info from Squamish Bouldering 4th Edition by Mark Bourdon.