July 27, 2010 - Witness this Squamish Sickness
Local Squamish climber Matt Maddaloni has discovered what may be one of the area’s most dramatic routes. Situated across the Squamish river and requiring a boat for access, Titan is a 20m roof climb that will likely clock in at 5.13c when it’s redpointed. A 5.12 thin-crack leads to the roof, which consists of 10 metres of slightly overhanging climbing before entering a chimney at the actual roof. The steep climbing continues for 17 more metres requiring gymnastic crack and sport climbing tactics before reaching the first set of anchors. The route can be extended with an unclimbed second pitch that could possibly be 5.12+ and would ensure a full-value experience. Climbers like Steve Townsend, Tim Emmet, Tony Mclane and Marc Le-clerc , who have sampled sections of the climb, confirm the line’s difficultly and quality. Maddaloni is very close to redpointing the route and we will have more details as they become available.
Titan 1
Titan 2
These photos are a bit confusing…
The images are looking straight up, which explains why one picture seems to show it vertical and then the next upside down. just look at tim emmett on the fixed line at the right of the second image to get orientation
cheers
mm
Phenomenal route. Are the nesting birds gone, then?