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Archive of Articles by Gripped


Hard New Mixed Route in Rockies by Walsh and Leclerc

A warm fall led to the latest start to a Canadian ice season in a few years, if not a decade. In the Rockies, a deep-freeze has got ice climbers finally swinging their tools. Jon Walsh and Marc-Andre Leclerc have established a hard new mixed route in Storm Creek. Walsh has been
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Will Stanhope Frees El Cap in a Day

It seems to be big wall season in Yosemite. Despite the short days, a number climbers are heading up El Cap and Half Dome for warm November rock climbing. Will Stanhope and Jesse Huey had been attempting to link El Cap and Half Dome, all free in a day. Early in the morning, they
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Film: DamNation

This powerful film odyssey across America explores the sea change in our national attitude from pride in big dams as engineering wonders to the growing awareness that our own future is bound to the life and health of our rivers. Dam removal has moved beyond the fictional Monkey
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Rocklands: a trad diary by James Pearson and Caroline Ciavalidini

In June 2014, Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson set off to discover trad In Rocklands. Originally in search of hard, “cutting edge” new routes, what the couple discovered is perhaps even more valuable! An almost unlimited potential for Trad development, with 1,000’s of new
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Fourth Free Ascent of The Nose!!!

Jorg Verhoeven has made the fourth free ascent of The Nose. After three days, he sent the iconic route after sending the Great Roof on his first burn of the attempt. Verhoeven wrote on his Facebook, “Yeeeaaaaah! I freeclimbed the Nose!!! In three days, I managed to grab the
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Interview with Jeff Lowe

Jeff Lowe  is considered one of the pioneers of waterfall and alpine ice climbing in North America. Jeff’s climbing career spans six decades and he is known for his visionary climbs and alpine style philosophy. Jeff has made over 1,000 first ascent. Jeff Lowe is in Banff
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The Tournier Spur

In August, Nick Bullock and Keith Ball climbed the Tournier Spur on the north face of the Aiguille de Midi. “We went in search of sun kissed rock and got squeaky styrofoam neve instead. It provided some loos,e but much needed acclimatization and a return to summer alpinism
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Jorg Verhoeven is working The Nose

Despite summer being over and winter not in full swing, this is the best time of year for late-season rock climbing and early-season ice. For a number of big wall free climbers, this is El Cap season. Verhoeven has been working on making the fourth free ascent of The Nose in
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Northern Ireland Bouldering

Fair Head consist of over three miles of predominantly north facing dolerite cliffs up to 100 m tall. For decades Irish climbers have been climbing trad routes up the corners and cracks of this massive crag, and word is slowly spreading, with some going so far as to call it the
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Sasha DiGiulian makes another first female ascent

Sasha DiGiulian has made the first female ascent of Thanatopsis 5.14b at Red River Gorge in Kentucky. DiGiulian reported on social media, “My project is complete. After failing to send this climb last March, I returned this week and did the first female ascent of
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