Gripped Magazine

News

Greenland/Baffin Report

Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva have returned from their lengthy trip to Greenland and Baffin Island. The climbers had a run-in with a polar bear, experienced nasty conditions and climbed 10 new routes, all from their sailboat. On Planet
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New Squamish 5.12 on The Pulpit

Paul McSorley and Will Stanhope have climbed a new route on The Pulpit, left of the Slhanny in Squamish. The route was a combination of efforts from a number of climbers. The new route called Industry Standard 5.12 climbs The Pulpit, a feature with a sharp prow on its left side
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New Dolomite Route (looks thin!)

Maurizio Zanolla has freed Pinne Gialle (Yellow Fin,) a new four-pitch route on Tognazza in Italy’s Dolomites. The Tognazza wall has a number of weaknesses that had been climbed, but the blank wall called to Zanolla to climb it. The route climbs through the lower wall on an
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George Mallory’s ice axe sold, but was it really his?

George Mallory’s ice axe sold for $240,000 CAD at an auction in April. Questions have been raised about whether the axe belonged to Mallory or not. On Apil 10, a Chrisite’s auction item listed as “Lot 216 – an ice axe” sold for a staggering $240,000
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Marieta Akalski is a Canadian Crusher

Marieta Akalski has shifted away from competition climbing to sport climbing. She started this spring with a trip to Colorado and is currently in Europe. Toronto-based climber Akalski is one of Canada’s leading female climbers. Having competed in a number of competitions
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Update: French Climber’s Execution

On Sept 22, French climber Herve Gourdel was kidnapped by a militant Islamic group and two days later he was executed. This is not the first time that climbers have been victims of a terrorist attack. On June 22, 2013, over a dozen militants attacked a basecamp on the 8,126-metre
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Kidnapped French Climber Beheaded in Algeria

Herve Gourdel, a French climber and mountain guide, is the latest westerner executed by a militant Islamic group. The group known as Jund al-Khilafa killed 55-year-old Herve Gourdel after a deadline for France to halt air strikes on IS in Iraq ended. French president Francois
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Petzl Roc Trip Stage One: Romania

The 2014 Petzl Rock Trip across Eastern Europe started last week. Stage one took place in Romania at Baile Herculane. Baile Herculane has been reputed for its hot springs since ancient Roman times, as is pointed out on the Petzl website. Hercules’ town has the most
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Italy’s Project Fear, new route in the Dolomites

Elite Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has established a major variation on the Dolomites’ Tre Cime di Lavaredo. As Dave MacLeod reports on his blog, he and Alan Cassidy MacLeod climbed the new route which combines a old with new ground. The initial 90 metres climbs a section
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Kai Lightner is World Champion

The Youth World Championships are taking place in Noumea, New Caledonia between Sept. 19 and Sept. 23. American Kai Lightner won for the Youth Male B climbers making him the world champion for his age group. Lightner is one of North America’s strongest climbers and is
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