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Chamonix Dispatches, July 16 – Warming Up

Chamonix is nestled into the valley between the Aiguille Rouges and Aiguille du Midi. It is widely regarded as the birthplace of alpinism and is at the cutting-edge of modern mountain sports. Gripped editor Brandon Pullan is in Chamonix for a month, at first for the
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Trotter, Caldwell and Wharton climb new route in Sicily

Sonnie Trotter, Tommy Caldwell and Josh Wharton have climbed a new six-pitch line on Sicily’s Monte Monaco. The name of the route was decided after a shout out on social media generated some 50 responses, one of which was chosen.  The trio named their new route, You Cannoli
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New Denali Speed Record

The Catalan mountain Ultrarunner Kilian Jornet set a new speed record on Denali, beating the old one by more than five hours. Jornet, 26, made the roundtrip from bottom to top, about 50 km in 11 hours and 40 minutes. The old record was held by Ed Warren at 16 hours and 46
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Reserved! Sasha DiGiulian walks away from project

We have all had to stopped and waited while someone poses for a photo, but what about postponing a multi-pitch project in Spain while camera crews film a fellow sponsored athlete. Sasha DiGiulian decided to call off plans to project the Pou brother’s Orbayu 5.14 on Naranjo
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Youth Olympic Games: sport climbing to be showcased

The IFSC announced that sport climbing will be present in the Youth Olympic Games in Nanjing, China from August 17-27 as a showcased sport. From the IFSC: In December 2013, the recently elected IOC President, Thomas Bach, presented the IFSC with the opportunity to showcase our
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7 El Cap Routes in 7 Days!

Alex Honnold and Dave Allfrey have completed seven El Cap routes in seven days. They set four new speed records and had to get up at 4 a.m. each day to avoid the heat. They climbed between 6,000 and 7,000 metres of granite during their El Cap blitz. “A great adventure with
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Vail World Cup and Another Podium for McColl

The North American back-to-back World Cups wrapped up in Vail, Co. Canadian Sean McColl won another bronze with an impressive comeback after qualifications. Sean McColl won bronze in Toronto against the world’s best, see results here, one week before the Colorado event. In
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Yamnuska Rescue

On Friday June 6, a climber was injured on Missionary Crack after a large block fell. Kananaskis Parks made an impressive heli-sling rescue to bring the man to safety and to the medical help he needed. The Kallen 34 route was originally graded 5.9, but was upgraded to 5.10b in
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Jonny Dawes meets the men who rescued him after Feb. injury

Johnny Dawes fell while climbing on Stanage Edge in Derbyshire in February, resulting in an open fracture to a leg. Dawes, one of Britain’s best known rock-climbers, met his rescuers who helped to save his leg after he suffered serious injuries in a fall earlier this year. He
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ACC Toronto donates $11,410 to Old Baldy purchase

The Toronto section of the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) is donating nearly twelve-thousand dollars to the purchase of Old Baldy.  In April we reported that the ACC was donating $5,000 to the purchase of Old Baldy. Last fall, we reported that MEC donated $100,000 to the purchase.
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