Gripped Magazine

Rock

From Around the World: new routes and wild K2 stats!

Here is an update on what has been going on outside of Canada this summer. On May 29 and 30, American climbers John Frieh and Jess Roskelley made the first ascent of No Rest For the Wicked IV+ AI6 M7, a hard new route up the West Witches Tit in SE Alaska. For the full report
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Climbing Behind the Chief Threatened by Potential Logging

The balance between industry and recreation is always a struggle, especially in Squamish: Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada. By Drew Copeland British Columbia Timber Sales (BCTS), which oversees logging in the area, is considering the sale of a timber licence for late this
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The Apocalyptic Wall: Climbed!

Jonny Simms and Chris Brazeau, both from Golden, B.C., have made the first ascent of an often-talked-about big wall on Mount Stephen in the Canadian Rockies. The Rockies have many unclimbed big walls, but few so close to the road. People have been talking about the large,
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Leclerc and Crew Rock the Waddington

Marc-Andre Leclerc has returned from a successful trip to the Waddington Range. Leclerc was in B.C.’s remote range for two weekes. He made solo link-up of Serra 5 and Asperity Mountain in an 18-hour return push from base camp, “So psyched to have completed the first
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Psicobloc Masters Live: watch them here at 9 p.m. EST

The second annual Psicobloc Masters competition is taking place in Salt Lake City tonight, Fri. August 8. Some of the world’s strongest climbers will be going head to head at the Park City event which promises to entertain. Psicobloc (aka Deep Water Soloing) is a form of
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New Slhanay Link on West Coast

Squamish has seen a lot of development in 2014. A few of the leading new routers are Glenn Woloski and friends. This was recently reported on Squamish Climbing: Up to 5.11b and 14 pitches. A semi-continuous multi-pitch circuit can be climbed in whole or broken up into sections.
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The Cobra Lost Its Head

One of the iconic towers of the Utah desert is no more. Reports are that the Cobra Tower fell over during bad weather. The delicate pillar was first climbed at 5.11 by Jimmie Dunn in the 90s. Many climbers have encountered rock they question and most  knew the ancient rock
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Hau sends new hard route in Rockies: The Prestige 5.14c

Calgary’s Evan Hau has made the first ascent of one of the hardest routes in the Canadian Rockies. After averaging around 80 days a season at Acephale the past couple of years, Hau wanted a change of scenery and turned his attention to some of the old projects at Planet X
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First Flight: Canada’s newest 5.14c

Josh Muller has made the first ascent of a 2013 project bolted by Calgary’s Lev Pinter. Muller is one of Canada’s strongest climbers, having sent Bunda de Fora 5.14d and a number of V14s. His home crag is Acephale, so it is no surprise that he would send one of the
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Barry Blanchard’s The Calling is now available!

One of the most anticipated books of 2014, Barry Blanchard’s new book The Calling, is now available. Blanchard is not only one of Canada’s most accomplished climbers, he is also one of the most colourfull characters in the sport. In Canada, his first ascents include
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