Gripped Magazine

Rock

Drones Banned in Yosemite

The National Parks Service (NPS) which governs Yosemite has banned the use of drones as a result of the recent increase of their use for photography. In a statement, the NPS notes that there has been a recent increase in the use of drones to capture aerial footage and rock
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Big Wall Speed Climbing Comp, New Record

Croatia’s Paklenica 15th big wall speed comp took place Mar 3.  Brothers Jurica and his brother Perica Levatić won the event. When you think about speed climbing, you likely don’t think about Croatia. For 15 years, climbers have been gathering in Paklenica’s
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Adam Ondra Onsights 5.14d (again)

Adam Ondra, arguably the world’s best climber, has onsighted his second 5.14d, his first was La Cabane au Canada in Rawyl last year. UK Climbing reported Ondra onsighted Il Domani 5.14d, in the Baltzola cave, Basque country. Patxi Usobiaga watched Ondra make the ascent and
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Ashima and Kai light it up at the Ring of Fire

The 2014 Ring of Fire Climbing Competition’s final round was on May 3 at Central Rock in Watertown M.A. The two young crushers who have been making headlines of late, Kai Lightner and Ashima Shiraishi, took top spots in the open category, an amazing performance by two
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Nalle Sends 13-Year Project, New V16

Finnish boulderer Nalle Hukkataival has linked a sit-start to Bugeleisen in Austria, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world at V16. Bugeleisen is Klem Loskot’s 2001 masterpiece in Austria’s Maltatal valley. The route has had little attention from top
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Alaska’s Revelations by Ian Welsted

For three weeks in April, three Rockies-based climbers ventured into the rarely visited Revelations range. Ian Welsted, who was recently awarded the Piolets d’Or, Kris Irwin, owner of Rockies Ice Specialists, and Darren Vonk, a climbing guide with Yamnuska Mountain School.
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Alpine Club of Canada’s Jen Higgins Fund goes to…

The Jen Higgins Fund was established in 1997 “to promote alpine-related outdoor pursuits for young women.” Until her death at the age of 22, Higgins set an outstanding example for young women with her unique combination of “… a love of the outdoors,
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Canadians’ Success in Alaska’s Revelation Mountains

Ian Welsted, Darren Vonk and Kris Irwin are back to Talkeetna, AK, after three weeks in the rarely-visited Revelation mountains. The John Lauchlan supported expedition to the Revelations which departed on April 1, returned successfully to Talkeetna on April 23. The first recorded
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Climbing Continues on Everest North

As climbers and Sherpas are putting the pieces together after last week’s deadly avalanche above Everest’s Base Camp on the Nepal south side of the mountain, teams on the north (China) side continue to climb. The Chinese Base Camp is at 5,199 metres. Here is a list of
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Hard Sends from Around the Globe

There is no doubt that standards are on the rise, climbers are sending big grades at both ends of the age-spectrum, from 61-year-old Fransisco Marin sending 5.14a to 14-year-old Kai Ligthner sending 5.14c, again. Kai Ligthner, 14, sends Lucifer, his second 5.14c, his first being
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