Gripped Magazine

Rock

New Moderate Mixed Route in Rockies: Soft Coire

Jay Mills is one of the Rockies’ leading guides and new routers. He has now climbed a number of new routes in the Coire Dubh area on Lodder Peak. After the December cold snap, Mill and his partner Julian headed up the ice pitches on Coire Dubh and climbed the standard M5
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Shivling: the Perfect Attempt

In September 2014, Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Rox made an attempt on Shivling in the Indian Himalayas. Their decision to bail was timely, as the following day a storm came that killed 40 people in Nepal. Teixeira and Rox’s initial plan was to attempt the unclimbed east spur
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Hardest Mixed Pitch in North America: Sent!

Will Mayo and Ryan Vachon worked the moves to a variation to The Mustang M14- in East Vail, Colorado and Mayo took it to the top. Mayo wrote on his Facebook, “Ryan sent the rig all the way to the last bolt below the thin ice finish, took, lowered off, and said, ‘I
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Books for climbers; top winter reads

Cold days and short daytime hours offer prime reading conditions. Here are the top climbing-related reads for winter 2014. Scroll to the bottom for cover shots. The Calling by Barry Blanchard Blanchard’s much-awaited memoirs. A portrait of the power of mountains to lift us
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Banner Year For Alex Honnold

Alex Honnold is undoubtedly the world’s most popular soloist. From Mexico and Patagonia to Yosemite and Squamish, 2014 was a big year for Honnold. Honnold started 2014 with a solo of the Owen’s River Gorge route Towering Inferno, a five-pitch 5.11b and Gape Index
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Nathan Kutcher Climbs Hard New Quebec Route

Nathan Kutcher is no stranger to headlines. He has established a number of hard ice, mixed and drytooling routes. He competes on the world stage at the UIAA ice climbing world cup. Last year, Kutcher spent three days in St. Alban and onsighted three M10s. St. Alban is an all
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Alex Johnson is Critically Acclaimed

Alex Johnson making the first ascent of a new line in Mustang Canyon, Critically Acclaimed V9. Johnson wrote on her Instagram, “I can’t believe there are still stunning unclimbed lines like this out here. On Tuesday, I was shown this gorgeous project. The crux is low,
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Alex Puccio Climbs Fifth V13 (and watch her crank four one-arm chin-ups)

Alex Puccio has been setting new standards for female bouldering the past year. Recently she made the first female ascent of Black Lung in Joe’s Valley. Puccio wrote on her social media, “Psyched to have sent the classic Black Lung V13 in Joe’s Valle
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New Hard Rockies Mixed Route

In the early 1980s, Jim Elzinga and party climbed a new route up the northeast face of Cirrus Mountain. Cirrus is famous for its west facing Polar Circus and Weeping Wall. In 2011, Elzinga and Gripped editor Brandon Pullan climbed a new route in the valley below the northeast
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Old Shannon Falls Route is Re-Cleaned

The rapid growth of vegetation in Squamish means routes must be kept up-to-date and climbed regularly or they’ll be lost beneath moss and shrubbery. Kris Wild recently unearthed Jump to Lightspeed near Shannon Falls in Squamish. “Just wanted to let folks know that I
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