Gripped Magazine

Rock

Sachi Amma and Yuji Hirayama: Hard New Routes in Borneo

In 2013, we ran a feature by Yuji Hirayama about the climbing on Mount Kinabalu in Borneo. Three years after Hirayama’s historic 2012 trip, he’s returned with crusher Sachi Amma. The two Japanese climbers spent three weeks at the iconic Mount Kinabalu where they sent
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Remote Northwest Adventure Yields New Long Routes

Canadian Max Fisher and American Eric Bonnett have returned from another successful trip to Alaska and Northwestern B.C., where they’ve climbed two new long alpine granite routes. By Max Fisher During a spell of excellent weather from May 18 to May 31, Erik Bonnett and I
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Mateusz Haladaj is First Polish Climber to Send 5.15!

Mateusz Haladaj is a 29-year-old Polish climber who recently sent his long-time project, Papichulo 5.15a, in Oliana this week. “So happy to climb that beast,” wrote Haladaj on 8a.nu who had climbed eight 5.14ds leading up to the ascent. “The 45 metres of
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Jamie Finlayson Sends Squaminator V12, Watch Here!

Squaminator V12 is part of the North Wall Boulders in Squamish and it’s one of the more popular problems at the grade in the area. Earlier this year, Luke Zimmerman made an ascent and his beta played a role in Jamie Finlayson’s ascent. “Steep and powerful with
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Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Climbs Second 5.14b on Home Soil

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is a 28-year-old crusher from Sheffield, England, who has been climbing for 20 years. In 2014, she became the first British woman to climb 5.14b, Mecca Extension at Raven Tor in the Peak District, on U.K. soil. Now, she’s done it again. On May 29, Mina
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Catching up with Adam Ondra: World Cups and Dawn Wall

Adam Ondra is a true giant of the climbing world. The Czech climber is the reigning World Champion in both Lead and Bouldering, an unprecedented achievement. On the rocks, Ondra’s tick list of first ascents and repeats are unmatched, both in quality and quantity. At 22
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Huge New Slab Route in Quebec is Eight Pitches!

Quebec has a number of mountains that rise over 1,000 metres from valley bottom. There is lots of potential for new long rock routes. The most recent new route is not technically difficult, but offers a long day on an aesthetic slab. Hugo Drouin, Claude Gélinas and Charles
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Gord McArthur Sends Difficult Project At Lakit Lake

Gord McArthur is best known for being a top international competitive mixed climber, but during the summer “off season,” he spends his time sans-tools at his local crag: Lakit Lake. Lakit Lake is one of the many crags around Cranbrook, B.C. where McArthur is based. As
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Climber Dies on The Nose

During one of the busier Yosemite seasons of late, a 22-year-old climber from Boulder, CO died on The Nose on May 27. YOSAR reponded to a call on May 27 after a climber fell 60 metres to the end of his rope while attempting to rappel from Camp Six to Camp Five to retrieve a piece
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Alpinist Markus Pucher Solos New Patagonian Line

In April, the strong Austrian climber, Markus Pucher, soloed a new route on a rarely attempted peak near El Chalten. On his Facebook page, Pucher wrote, “New route on West Face of Marconi Sur. Into the Wild 800-metre M5.” The Marconi range were named for Guglielmo
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