Austrians Climb New R-rated Black Canyon Route

Austrians Hansjorg Auer and Much Mayr have climbed the new 600-metre route called Mango Tango 5.11+R/X in Black Canyon, Colorado.

They sent the 11-pitch test-piece line on the right side of Diagonal Buttress ground-up in a push. The R-rated route climbs between Diagonal Wall and Pathfinder and has almost no fixed gear.

In 2011, Auer made the first free ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall 5.13+R with partner Ben Lepesant.

We had a blast in the US over the last few weeks. Sampled the goods of Indian Creek, The Black Canyon, The God's Crag and did the same during some days sportclimbing in Rifle with @bookofsamuel and @joekinder. ~ We finished the trip by warming up old memories with the one and only @cody_roth in Austin/Texas while climbing in his new playground nearby. Cody, Much and I had spent so much time together during those days in and out Innsbruck's 'Körner Street' which made it a pleasure to check out his and @melziebubs new life in Austin. ~ Pictured here you can see one of the great features of our new 18 pitches long route 'Mango Tango' (5.11+ R/X) on the Diagonal Will Buttress in The Black Canyon of Colorado, which was definitely a highlight of the trip. Together with Much Mayr I've opened the line in an 11h ground-up push leaving two pitons and one nut in-situ. ~ #climbing #blackcanyon #neverstopexploring #utah #colorado #texas @thenorthface @oetztal.official @lasportivagram @team_edelrid @totemcams @smithoptics @garmin

A post shared by Hansjörg Auer (@hansjoergauer) on May 17, 2017 at 10:25am PDT

Local crusher Josh Wharton has been climbing in the Black Canyon for nearly 20 years. Starting in 1998, he has sent nearly 100 routes in the canyon, including Hallucinogen Wall.

Wharton will be at the 2017 Canmore Climbing Festival with Squamish-based crusher Vikki Weldon. Watch this short film about Wharton’s “black binder” full of Black Canyon sends.