New Three-Move Problem Might Be V16
While he hasn't given a grade, Toru Nakajima said the new three-move problem is his hardest to date and he's climbed several V15 and V16 boulders
Toru Nakajima, who’s arguably one of the best boulderers to date, has made the first ascent of a problem in Japan that he’s called Regret. While he doesn’t grade it, he said it’s his hardest to date and he’s climbed eight V15 boulders and one V16.
Nakajima had spent over 20 sessions projecting Burden of Dreams V17 prior to Will Bosi’s second ascent. In 2009, he made the FA of Black Out E9 in the UK at 15 years old, he then made the third ascent of Tokyo V15 in 2012, and went on to make the fourth ascent of Lucid Dreaming V15 in Bishop.
He said Regret took him 20 days and has only three moves after starting on two high crimps. “Spending twenty days on just three moves, in freezing cold, is something I’ll never forget,” he said. “But, wow, those twenty days were something else. Hands down, it was the hardest climbing challenge I’ve faced. But if you ask me the grade, I couldn’t tell you. It feels harder than Lucid Dreaming V15 in Bishop, US, which is kinda similar, but then again, who’s to say if a three-move V16 is a thing?”
In 2022, he made the third ascent of Epitah V16 – watch below.
Epitaph V16
Check out the latest buyer's guide:
