Limestone project chopped and solved at 5.14c (but pitons added on rappel)
In 1996, Harald Bielmeier bolted a 40-metre crack which ended in five metres of blank wall. Since then, the final crux remained a project. Roland Hemetzberger spent two years working on the route. He realized it could be climbed in a “cleaner” style.
After removing the bolts, Hemetzberger climbed the route using natural protection at a grade of 5.14c.
However, the gear was added on rappel which might contradict the cleaner style.
Read more about Hemetzberger on his blog here.
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