Quebec crusher Em Pellerin has made a rare repeat of Air China 5.13dR, a thin crack first climbed by Matt Segal nearly a decade ago. The route is similar in style to Air Swedin 5.13R in Indian Creek.
The hard line starts up a seam that take infrequent protection, then heads up an arete with small features that lead to a bolt. Segal nearly died on an early attempt and decided to add a bolt because without it a fall could lead to serious injuries. After the bolt, the route continues up hard moves to the top.
Earlier this year, Pellerin and Julien Bourassa-Moreau made the first free ascent of Colours of the Wind, a four-pitch 5.13 trad climb in China. Pellerin is one of Canada’s leading trad climbers who made the second onsight ascent of The Shadow 5.13 in Squamish last year.