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Youth Climbing Injuries Article by Eric Horst

Climber Eric Horst is one of the most well-known coaches in the world and he’s published an article on common injuries in from training and rock climbing.

As a father of two, he’s been interested in the recurring injuries in youth climbers and how to prevent them.

Eric Horst with his sons Jonathan and Cameron.  Source: Horst's blog
Eric Horst with his sons Jonathan and Cameron. Source: Horst’s blog

Here’s an excerpt from Horst’s piece:

“The most common non-impact injuries among teenage climbers are overuse injuries to tendons, joints, and bones of the fingers, including stress fractures and damage to the growth plates.

“Any youth climber, regardless of age, experiencing chronic pain in the fingers (or elsewhere) should cease climbing for a few weeks and consult a doctor if the pain continues.

“As a hard-and-fast rule, climbing and climbing-specific training must be limited to an aggregate of four days per week.”

Read the article here.

Watch a campus board session with Sonnie Trotter: