Best Climbing Shoes for Spring 2023
The ultimate guide to your most important piece of equipment for outdoor climbing
Of all the climbing equipment you can purchase, nothing will improve your performance as much as a new pair of climbing shoes. After all, next to your hands, your shoes are your primary contact with the rock or plastic. If you’re an experienced climber, purchasing new shoes gives you a chance to add a more specialized piece of footwear to your climbing shoe quiver or update an existing pair of shoes that have seen better days. On the other hand, if you’re just starting out, buying new climbing footwear not only allows you to avoid using those putrid rental shoes, but you can also choose footwear that better fits the shape of your foot, resulting in greater control and precision when standing on more challenging holds.
With that out of the way, here are the top climbing shoes for spring 2023.
Black Diamond Momentum
A comfortable entry-level shoe with an innovative knit upper.
This comfortable shoe (targeted toward new climbers) features a unique knit upper that delivers excellent breathability while still providing the abrasion resistance necessary for a climbing shoe. This upper also tends to hold its shape, ensuring the fit remains relatively constant with use. The outsole rubber does a good job of balancing smearing and edging while retaining the durability needed when climbers are starting out. Black Diamond wisely specs a medium stiff midsole that’s supportive enough for edging while providing the flexibility necessary for smearing on volumes and large features.
Scarpa Origin
An impeccably crafted entry-level shoe with traditional materials.
Unlike some climbing shoes, the comfort-oriented flat lasted Scarpa Origin uses leather for the upper. While leather may not be a first choice for Vegan climbers, it provides durability and breathability and, perhaps most important, naturally conforms to the shape of your foot with use. This last point is worth noting if you have sensitive feet or are looking for a shoe that will eventually match the shape of your foot. Continuing with the fit-and-comfort theme, the Origin also features a roomy forefoot as well as Scarpa’s Pressure Absorbing Fit (PAF) system that reduces pressure on the Achilles tendon. A 5 mm thick Vision rubber sole is mated to a medium stiff midsole for balanced performance on a variety of holds and features. Finally, like many of Scarpa’s high-end shoes, the Origin is made in Italy, which may explain its exceptional construction considering its price point.
La Sportiva Tarantulace
A well-made and affordable entry-level shoe with a traditional lace closure.
Climbers seeking an inexpensive lace-up shoe will appreciate the Tarantulace. Built with relaxed tensioning and a flat last, the Tarantulace is a solid choice for new climbers seeking comfort and performance at a reasonable price. The shoe features a leather upper with synthetic overlays to minimize stretch, and the laces allow for further fit tweaking, although at the expense of easy donning and doffing. Sportiva specs 5 mm FriXion RS rubber for a reasonable balance of performance and durability. Like most shoes in this category, the Tarantulace has a medium stiff midsole allowing the shoe to stand on small edges while still being flexible enough for more subtle smearing moves.
Evolv Defy/Elektra Lace
A comfortable entry-level shoe with an innovative leather upper.
The Defy and the women’s Elektra deliver a level of comfort and performance that new climbers will appreciate. Evolv starts with a semi-perforated leather upper (the perforations do fully puncture the leather) that easily conforms to the shape of the climber’s foot and provides somewhat greater breathability than conventional leather. Evolve adds a ¾ length speed lace closure that allows for more fit-control than Velcro straps but is not as cumbersome to use as full-length laces. Finally, a chunky 4.2 mm TRAX SAS rubber outsole is mated to a full-length midsole, ensuring appropriate support when standing on smaller footholds.
Scarpa Quantix SF
A comfortable and precise all-rounder for rock or plastic.
The Quantix SF targets intermediate or even advanced climbers looking for a versatile all-rounder that delivers exceptional performance on plastic and rock. The Quantix SF is built on a slightly downturned last with Scarpa’s Single Frame (SF) tension system. This construction provides even support around the forefoot without the discomfort often associated with more highly tensioned shoes. At the back of the shoe, Scarpa employs its Pressure Absorbing Fit (PAF) system that reduces pressure on the Achilles tendon. The shoe features a synthetic upper that conforms to the shape of the foot while retaining the overall fit during the shoe’s lifespan. A 1.4 mm Flexan midsole provides support without compromising flexibility and sensitivity, and the addition of Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber ensures solid performance when smearing or climbing on steeper routes.
La Sportiva TC Pro
A comfortable and precise shoe for long routes and crack climbs.
This classic mid-height shoe has become the go-to for many crack climbers and multi-pitch aficionados. The shoe is built on a flat last with a supportive midsole for all-day comfort when standing on small edges. The leather upper provides solid abrasion resistance, while the carefully positioned perforations and ventilated padded tongue deliver additional airflow for greater comfort during longer climbs. Sportiva has tweaked the randing to minimize delamination and has also modified the medial side lacing for greater comfort when jamming. Finally, a generous slab of Vibram XS Edge rubber ensures consistent performance when standing on granite micro-edges and nubbins.
Scarpa Drago
A soft and sensitive performance shoe for steep terrain.
High-level sport climbers and boulderers will appreciate the Scarpa Drago. This highly downturned and asymmetric shoe delivers exceptional precision and sensitivity for difficult climbing. Scarpa starts with a lightweight synthetic upper that maintains its shape during the shoe’s life but yields sufficiently to comfortably hug the climber’s foot. The shoe’s forefoot is swathed in ultra-grippy M50 rubber that helps focus power to the toes and provides unparalleled toe hooking. A small 1 mm thick Flexan midsole provides some support when venturing onto less steep terrain, and the Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber sole delivers consistent performance on a variety of holds.
La Sportiva Miura
A precise performance-oriented edging and shallow-pocket climbing shoe.
There’s a reason the Miura has remained relatively unchanged since it was first introduced in the 90s; it works. Built on a downturned and highly asymmetric last, the Miura Lace is an exceptional choice for technical face climbing routes and pocket climbs. The shoe is constructed with a burly leather upper that’s lined with Dentex to minimize stretch. The upper is then wrapped with a sophisticated rand system, ensuring optimal tensioning for performance. A 1.1 mm Laspoflex midsole provides additional support when dancing on dime-sized edges, while the Vibram XS Edge rubber delivers solid edging with minimal shearing and deformation on micro holds.
Here are some common FAQs (and answers) about climbing shoes:
How tight should my shoes be?
As with so many things in life, the answer is complicated. And before we can provide any guidance, climbers need to understand that climbing shoes work because they compress your foot. This compression prevents your foot from sliding inside the shoe, which can cause you to slip off of small footholds. Compression also creates support for your foot, allowing you to stand more easily on smaller features. How you choose to size your shoes is entirely up to you as long as you remember that a looser fit, while more comparable, will not allow you to stand on smaller holds as easily.
On the other hand, a snugger fit offers more support and precision but sacrifices comfort and requires you to remove the shoes more frequently. There is no correct answer, and as long as you understand the trade-offs, you’re not likely to make a wrong decision. Use the manufacturer’s recommendations as a start, and adjust your sizing based on your aspirations.
Are laces better than Velcro closures?
Again, the answer depends a lot on what you are doing. Velcro allows you to quickly remove your shoes between routes and boulder problems, which is a benefit when you’re wearing a tight-fitting performance shoe. Laces allow for greater fit adjustments but are a pain to use if you constantly have to remove your shoes between climbing attempts. Also, while laces can reduce the shoe’s volume and make it feel snugger, they can’t make shoes feel shorter. This last point is worth remembering because laces cannot make a poorly fitting shoe fit better.
I’m just starting out. Should I get a beginner shoe or a more advanced model?
I recommend a beginner shoe. Not only is this footwear more affordable, but you will shed fewer tears when you eventually have to replace or resole the shoe. New climbers are notorious for having sloppy footwork, which exacerbates shoe wear. Replacing a $120 pair of shoes after three months is less painful than buying a new pair of $240 shoes. Once your footwork has improved and you have a better idea of where you want to go with climbing, feel free to spend more for better-performing shoes.
Products reviewed in this article:
Black Diamond Momentum
Scarpa Origin
La Sportiva Tarantulace
Evolv Defy/Elektra Lace
Scarpa Quantix SF
La Sportiva TC Pro
Scarpa Drago
La Sportiva Miura
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