Buyer’s Guide: The Trad Climber
Don't sacrifice on protection or performance with top picks for trad climbing gear
There are more trad climbers then ever, with some aiming to repeat modest classics ground-up and others hoping to head-point run-out test-pieces. While there are some solid new pieces of gear, this year is all about safety. Use a durable rope, protective shoes and bring more gear than you anticipate needing.
Arc’teryx AR395
If you’re projecting a trad line, then you want a harness that’s light and slim but also one that can carry all your cams and nuts. The versatile AR395 has four beefy gear loops that can hold two racks and adjustable leg loops. A great choice for all your trad climbs this year.
Grivel Mutant
The new Mutant is a fresh take on light and fast helmets. An innovative design complimented with a symmetric hexagon-covered makes this one of the best helmets of the year for big objectives where weight matters. It protects against falling rocks and will keep you safe in the event of an untimely whip. It comes in two sizes.
Black Diamond C4
While there are a few options on the market when it comes to camming devices, the C4 is still one of the most trusted and most reliable. From trigger keepers to the light weight, every trad climber needs at least one rack of these awesome cams. The wide trigger and grippy lobes make these easy to place and remove.
Black Diamond Stopper Set 4 to 13
Every trad climber needs passive protection, gear that will slide into constrictions where camming units wouldn’t work. These tried-and-tested nuts have a transverse taper that allows you to fit them into seams, pin scars and flares. This wide range is a great starter set for any new trad climber.
Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Pro
At 9.6 mm, this professional grade rope is designed to take the abuse of long-days on tall multi-pitch lines. It’s subtle but rugged, a great choice for single- and multi-pitch trad climbs.
Scarpa Generator Mid
The new Generator combines Scarpa’s excellent quality with a new plan: build the future shoe for trad climbers. With high-top padding to protect the ankle in deep cracks and sturdy lacing, this is a move away from aggressive indoor boulder and toward splitters.
Camp Alpine Express
Trad climbing requires you to place protection where the rock allows, which sometimes means traversing. To help reduce rope drag, having quickdraws that can extend will give you piece of mind when sewing up a pitch with several pieces of gear. The carabiners are nice and big the Alpine Express are nice and big, which makes them easy to grab and clip when pumped and scared.
Petzl Agne Finesse
Not all trad climbs required extendable quickdraws, some follow vertical cracks where the best option is one meant for sport climbing. The Agne Finesse is ultra-light so you’re not adding too much extra weight onto your already heavy harness. Consider having a set of these and extendable quickdraws in your trad rack.
Rab Torque
Trad climbing can be stressful enough, the last thing you want to worry about is your physical comfort. That’s why have a top-of-the-line softshell that’s stretchy but protective is essential. With added material to prevent tearing, the Torque is built for climbing wresting cracks. A great all-season layer.
The North Face Standard Tapered Pants
The last thing you want are baggy pants when you’re trad climbing. You have to be able to see your feet when shoving them into cracks. Plus you don’t want extra fabric that can make jams more complicated or that can catch on your placed protection. This pair of fitted pants is a great option for crack climbing.
Black Diamond Cirque 45
Getting your gear to the crag in an orderly manner always helps start the day right. The Cirque is designed for many activities, from alpinism to trekking, but we found it excelled at carrying heavy loads to the crag. Pack your racks, layers and rope and hump it into any single-pitch wall with confidence.
Deuter Guide 32 SL
The Guide line of packs are some of the most trusted in the world of backcountry travel. The newest version of the 32 SL is lighter, more durable and has features, like removeable straps, that can make it lighter. It has smartly designed ice axe attachments, is compatible with a three litre drinking system and has a height adjustable lid. Built for guides, this pack is perfect for trad climbers heading into the alpine.
This story originally appeared in the April/May 2023 issue of Gripped: The Climbing Magazine
Products reviewed in this article:
Grivel Mutant
Edelrid Tommy Caldwell Pro
Scarpa Generator Mid
Rab Torque
The North Face Standard Tapered Pants
Black Diamond Cirque 45
Deuter Guide 32 SL
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