Warm Belay Jackets For Cold Weather Climbing

While the Apex St Elias parka borrows some styling cues from the classic 1992 MEC version of that jacket, the current iteration is significantly lighter and warmer while remaining reasonably priced. MEC specs 800-fill power down in the body, hood, and sleeves for maximum warmth, low weight and compressibility. Areas susceptible to moisture (cuffs, elbows, underarms, shoulders, and front collar) are stuffed with Thermolite Micro synthetic insulation. The shell fabric features a similar two-part approach with a lightweight nylon on the body and a water-resistant Pertex Endurance ripstop fabric on the shoulders, hood, elbows, and lower back. A helmet-compatible hood, outer and inner insulated zipper flaps, and efficient offset-baffle construction round out the features of this great updated belay jacket.

Sporting a recycled nylon shell and 800-fill power down, the Fitz Roy is a solid choice when going fast-and-light. The jacket has two handwarmer pockets, two vertical chest pockets, and a cavernous internal pocket for easy storage and organization of small essentials. If the wind picks up, a helmet-compatible odd provides additional warmth. As a mid-weight belay jacket, the Fitz Roy is not excessively bulky, and can be worn as an insulating layer when climbing in colder conditions.

If you plan on summiting peaks in cold weather or belaying during challenging winter alpine ascents, consider adding the Neutrino Pro to your clothing quiver. Insulated with 800-fill-power down with a hydrophobic finish and covered with a 20D recycled Pertex Quantum Pro shell, the Neutrino Pro combines exceptional warmth for extreme conditions with relatively minimal weight and bulk. Rab has repatterned the arms for easier movement and spec’d a slightly larger pattern ripstop fabric over the shoulders and upper sleeves for increased durability without adding extra weight. This is a great no-compromise down jacket for difficult cold-weather climbing.

Redesigned for 2023, the Black Diamond Belay Parka features new fabrics and an improved fit. The jacket is stuffed with a combination of Primaloft Rise and Primaloft Gold Cross Core insulation for warmth, even in damp conditions. The 50D ripstop shell fabric offers wind protection, while the 20D nylon taffeta liner glides effortlessly over other layers. BD includes a helmet-compatible hood, stretch cuff to block out drafts, and multiple pockets for gloves and other small items.

If you want a jacket that you can use when climbing and belaying, check out the Compressor Alpine Hooded Jacket from Mountain Hardwear. The jacket is filled with Primaloft Gold P.U.R.E insulation, which delivers low weight and excellent insulation even in wet conditions. The shell consists of multiple fabrics chosen for their low weight and exceptional durability. A roomy helmet-compatible hood provides additional weather protection and warmth, while six pockets offer plenty of storage for small items and gloves.

Designed as a high-altitude mountaineering jacket, the Absolute Zero Parka is perfect for belaying in frigid conditions or for anyone particularly sensitive to the cold. The jacket is stuffed with 800-fill power down, which is housed in welded baffles. This construction eliminates traditional stitching, improving the jacket’s thermal efficiency. The jacket’s main panels consist of a lightweight Pertex 20D Diamond Fuse Ripstop, while a more abrasion-resistant Pertex 50D fabric is employed in high-wear areas. Multiple pockets, an oversized hood, and extended pit zips round out some of the features of this exceptionally warm jacket.

The biggest issue with most down jackets is their relatively delicate shell. The fabrics frequently chosen to house the heat-trapping down are biased toward being light, as that tends to complement down’s inherent low weight. Not surprisingly, these fabrics are less abrasion-resistant and more susceptible to tearing when compared to heavier materials. Until recently, you had to live with these compromises, but thanks to Black Diamond’s Vision Down Parka, you can now get the best of both worlds. The jacket uses 800-fill power down for exceptional warmth, low weight, and compressibility. The down is then housed in a unique nylon ripstop fabric that features a revolutionary Japanese Liquid Crystal Polymer (LCP) reinforced construction. The result is excellent durability without excess weight. Other notable (yet less revolutionary) features include a helmet-compatible hood, underarm gussets for greater movement, and multiple pockets for storage.

If you want a belay jacket with total wind and water protection without compromising breathability, check out the Beta Down Insulated Jacket. Stuffed with 850-fill power down, the Beta delivers the warmth climbers require when belaying in frigid conditions. The weather protection mentioned earlier stems from Arc’teryx’s decision to use a shell fabric that’s laminated to a Gore-Tex waterproof/breathable membrane. The result is unparalleled weather protection that exceeds what conventional non-membrane shells can provide. Throw in a helmet-compatible hood, numerous pockets, and pit zips for ventilation, and it becomes evident that the Beta Down Insulated Jacket is a solid choice for winter conditions.

Here are some common FAQs (and answers) about down and synthetic insulation:

Down or synthetic insulation?

For the same level of warmth, high-quality down jackets will be lighter and more compressible. Unfortunately, if the down becomes wet, it loses its loft and will no longer provide insulation (more information below). Synthetics are not as impacted by wet and damp conditions and will continue to provide insulation. Synthetics will also dry out significantly faster than down if they become wet. Finally, high-quality jackets with synthetic insulation tend to be less expensive than comparable down garments.

What is down?

Down is the layer of very fine feathers found under the exterior feathers of all birds. Unlike feathers, down has a very delicate structure and lacks the stiff quill associated with feathers. Down is located closest to the bird’s body (beneath the feathers) and is incredibly efficient at trapping warmth. For high-quality outdoor clothing, down is harvested from ducks and geese as they have higher quality down.

What does fill power mean?

Fill power is a number used to describe down quality and refers to the volume (cubic inches) that one ounce of down fills in a pre-determined cylinder size. I won’t bore you with the exact process; suffice it to say that higher fill-power down fills more space for the same ounce of weight. This means that if two jackets use the same amount of down (weight), the one with the higher fill-power down will have more loft and therefore be warmer. Alternatively, the jacket with the higher lofting down can use less down while still achieving the same level of warmth. Finally, the coat with the higher fill-power down will be more compressible than a jacket with the same loft level that uses a lower fill-power (and therefore more) down. Most good quality down garments have a minimum of 550-fill power down, while higher quality clothing will use up to 900-fill power down. The only real drawback to better quality down is the price – it will be more expensive.

Is down difficult to clean?

A common myth is that down is difficult to clean. This is not true. While you don’t want to throw high-quality down jackets in the washing machine with harsh detergents, cleaning is relatively simple. Start by using an appropriate down-wash cleanser – there are many on the market. Next, use a front-loading washing machine. Down becomes surprisingly heavy when wet and washing machines with a central agitator can pull these heavy down clumps resulting in torn seams and baffles. Rinse the jacket thoroughly and then put it in the dryer. That’s about it. Stop the dryer occasionally to break up the down clumps, or alternatively, throw in some tennis balls to help eliminate the clumps. It will take some time to dry the jacket, but that’s all that’s necessary to clean a down garment.

Is down environmentally friendly?

Down, like wool, is very environmentally sustainable. Also, the fact that down continues to retain its heat-trapping properties for years (decades?) when properly maintained, means that you will not have to replace your jacket as frequently as with garments made with synthetic insulation. Finally, down is completely biodegradable.

How is down ethically harvested?

There is not one major outdoor clothing manufacturer that is not using ethically sourced down. Down is harvested from birds used in the meat industry, and many companies only source down from independently accredited RDS (Responsible Down Standards) suppliers.

What if my down jacket gets wet?

Unlike synthetics, if down becomes wet, it will begin to lose its insulating properties. That said, once the down dries (which may take some time, depending on how saturated it’s become), it will continue to work.

Down sounds like a wonder-insulation. Does it have any drawbacks?

Down’s major drawbacks include its long drying time and its inability to retain heat when wet. Some companies are treating their down with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish to reduce moisture absorption but down is perhaps not the best insulation for extended wet weather conditions. A small number of individuals may also suffer from down allergies, making down a less-than-ideal insulating choice.

Products reviewed in this article: