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Four Factors That Decide Lead Climbing Champs

Factors deciding lead climbing champions

Udo Neumann is one of the world’s leading climbers when it comes to breaking down the factors that make a climber a champion.

In this video, we see that there are no obvious differences regarding physical abilities, rather winning is about efficiency an avoiding mistakes.

Neumann breaks down the factors as follows:

Resting: We distinguish two different strategies for resting – Block vs Intermittent resting. More experienced and successful climbers display more flexibility in their strategy. If good rests are available, “milking” them (within the time constraints) wins.

Smoothness Factor: Successful competitors distinguish themselves with shorter hold exploration and contact time, less jerk, a more continuous movement, less chaotic force / time graphs and ultimately a better smoothness factor.

Adaptability: Not every climbing move can be planned. High Ambiguity tolerance allows successful climbers to view unexpected or ambiguous stimuli not as a threat, but in a neutral and open way.

Decision Fatigue: Moves in these routes are not limit for the shown competitors. Mistakes are often because of the deteriorating quality of decisions made by the climber after a long session of decision making. One more reason to climb as fluently as possible!