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Climbing News, Jan 1, 2014

From new boulder problems to Himalayan expeditions, climbers were busy during the holidays.

Austria New Big Mixed 

Dec 22, 2013, Gerry Fiegl and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of Schwarze Witwe, WI6, M5, 800 m, up the north face of Hohe Warte, Zillertal Alps.

Photo Simon Gietl  Source Planet Mountain
Photo Simon Gietl Source Planet Mountain

New Hueco Routes

Dec 26, 2013, Sam Davis did the first ascent of 50 Shades of Red, V12, and James Webb did the second ascent.

Jan 1, 2014, James Webb did the first ascent of Bonsai, V12, “One of the absolute best boulder problems I have ever tried. Unique holds, unique movement, consistent climbing with a crazy stem finish. In my opinion the best for the grade in Hueco.”

El Chonta, Mexico

Dec 28, 2013, Olivier Turgeon did the first ascent of Los dos Gringos, 5.13c.

El Chonta
El Chonta

First New Route of the Year

January 1, 2013, the first new route of the year was climbed by Guntram Jörg at his home crag Burs, Vorarlberg, Austria. He climbed the new Wombat, 5.13+, early New Year’s Day morning in cold temperatures. There are no available photos of the climb.

Bad Weather Hits Nanga Parbat 

New Year’s Day at Nanga Parbat’s basecamp was cold, strong wind was thrashing tents, snow accumulated and temperatures were below -20°C even inside tents.

Ralf Dujmovits has decided that he will attempt the Messner Route on Diamir Face. “I was hoping to be able to climb this 1000-metre-high ice fall section in only one push. But it became so complicated that finding the way through the crevasses and seracs really became a time consuming and scary task. I’m losing my acclimatization. Maybe I have to work my way up camp by camp… that was not really my plan,” said Dujumovits.

The North Face athletes Simone Moro, David Gottler and Emilio Previtali are at the Rupal Face Base Camp. 

The Polish team is also at the Rupal Face Base Camp, they reached reache  5,500 m on December 26th, then the weather forced them down. “It is the 30th of December now and we all are killing the time in anticipation for some sunshine – recovering from the last outing on the mountain, playing cards, eating loads and hearing whatever stories each of the team members has to share.”

Italian Daniele Nardi is waiting until the end of January to head to base camp, not wanting to compete with other climbers.

For more information, check out ExploresWeb.

At 5,400 metres  Photo Ralf Dujmovits
At 5,400 metres Photo Ralf Dujmovits

New UK V14

Joe Wilson climbed the first ascent of Bloodsport Lefthand, at Shaftoe Crags, a lefthand variant on an Andy Earl, V13, grading it V14. Tom Newman added a sit-start to Ben Bransby’s Three Hundred Pound Musclin’ Man, calling it An Extra Pound of Musclin’ Man, and grading it V11.

Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH Photo Katie Gamble
Joe Wilson on the first ascent of Bloodsport LH Photo Katie Gamble