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Adam Ondra Flashes V13/14 in Sweden

The bouldering flash comes after a month of sport and trad redpoints and onsights in France and Italy

Adam Ondra recently flashed Luftig kö till nålens öga V13/14 8B in Vinslöv, Sweden. Established by Erik Baecklin in 2019, the problem was originally graded V14 but a subsequent ascensionist suggested V13. The steep compression line ends with a strenuous cut-loose rotation to a high heel.

“First time bouldering in Sweden and what a day!” said Ondra after his ascent. “Pretty unique how one single bloc can produce such amazing quality lines. I saw a video of this unique compression roof-arete a few years ago and I knew I absolutely HAD TO climb this thing one day. I had a great crew with strong locals, lots of beta available and amazing and motivating vibes.”

“Everything flowed really well, I got all technical details perfectly on this compression beast and I found myself at the final cut-loose, where I just tried really really hard (can’t remember when I had try so hard in the span of just a second) and I was on the top,” continued Ondra. “I think hard [V13] fits this line.”

After flashing Luftig kö till nÃ¥lens öga, Ondra tried a lower start version of the problem, Den nattliga havsfärden. Originally graded V15, a second ascensionist suggested V14. Ondra wasn’t able to send the problem that session but thought it might be low-end V15.

After a solid 2023 on the rock, Ondra has already put down some hard onsights and redpoints this year. In early February he onsighted Rock Me Baby 5.13d in Austria and Finement Con 5.14a and Le Brilliant Saoul 5.14b in Buoux, France. He also redpointed Inga 5.14c in Nice, France. February 14th was his biggest day of the year so far, making the second ascent of Bon Voyage 5.14d trad. Two days after Bon Voyage 5.14d, he sent Stéroïde Bull 5.14c in Gréolières, France on his second try. A day after that, he sent Narcissus 5.14d on his second go.

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