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Alex Megos Repeats Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15c

He's the first climber to repeat the new Sharma line in Siurana, Spain

Photo by: Christoph Hanke

Alex Megos just announced that he has made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion 5.15c (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. Located at the famous El Pati crag, Sleeping Lion is a route characterized by stacked double-digit boulder problems separated by poor rest positions. Both tenuous and powerful, the route requires a wide range of skills through its 40 metres of climbing.

“Also a comp year can start with a hard route outside!” said Megos on Instagram about his Sleeping Lion send. “Really glad it worked out to send this one, before the indoor training begins. Thanks Chris Sharma for yet another great line!” Nearly 10 years after completing his first 5.15c, La Dura Dura, Sharma made the first ascent of Sleeping Lion in March 2023, grading it 5.15c. Megos has yet to comment on the grade.

After making the first ascent of Sleeping Lion back in March, Sharma said, “Climbing Sleeping Lion this week was an incredible culmination to a deep physical and mental experience and one of the best and hardest climbs of my life! After almost 30 years, it’s incredible to still feel so much passion for climbing. The places it takes us are incredible (on the outside and on the inside).”

If the 5.15c grade holds, Sleeping Lion will be Megos’ third route of the grade, and his first ever 5.15c repeat. He made the first ascent of Margalef’s Perfecto Mundo in May 2018. In August 2020, he FA’d Bibliographie in Céüse. He originally graded the route 5.15d, but it was later downgraded to 5.15c by Stefano Ghisolfi, which Megos agreed with.

Chris Sharma works Sleeping Lion

Stefano Ghisolfi tries Sleeping Lion

 

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Lead photo: Christoph Hanke