Alex Megos Suggests 5.15b for Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion
Sharma originally proposed 5.15c for the route, which he first climbed in March 2023
Photo by: Marco Zanone
Yesterday, Alex Megos announced that he had made the second ascent of Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion in Siurana, Spain. Sharma made the first ascent of the route in March 2023, grading it 5.15c (9b+). The ascent came nearly 10 years after completing his first 5.15c, La Dura Dura in Oliana, Spain.
Today, Megos shared his thoughts on the grade of Sleeping Lion. “The first few days I only checked out sections of the route, feeling confident that I’ll climb it in two weeks,” said Megos via Instagram. “After falling 4 times on the last move and actually being very surprised how pumpy the last few moves were coming from the ground I understood my first impression was a little deceiving. In the end it took me 8 days and I would suggest [5.15b], as both the [5.15c’s] I did took me at least twice as long. Very happy to hear what other repeaters will say in the future!”
With a grade of 5.15b, Sleeping Lion joins a long list of routes of the grade that Megos has completed over the years, including first ascents of The Full Journey and Rastaman Vibrations in 2022 and Fight Club in 2016. He’s also made first ascents of two 5.15c routes: Perfecto Mundo in 2018 and Bibliographie in 2020. Megos himself was subject to a high-profile downgrade with Bibliographie. He originally graded the route 5.15d, but it was later adjusted to 5.15c by Stefano Ghisolfi, which Megos agreed with.
Chris Sharma works Sleeping Lion
Stefano Ghisolfi tries Sleeping Lion
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