Brette Harrington Makes Third Free Ascent of Edge of Pan!

Gripped Magazine July 20, 2015

Squamish-based crusher Brette Harrington has made the third ascent and first female ascent of Edge of Pan 5.13 on the Pan Wall on The Chief.

The Edge of Pan was first free-climbed in 2011 by Sonnie Trotter. One week ago, Harrington and American climber Jesse Huey rappelled in for a go. Huey had been on the route before, but it was Harrington’s first look and on the way down she scoped the gear placements.

Harrington then attempted a flash of the 5.13 corner, but came off before the top. Huey then made the historic second clean lead of Edge of Pan.

On July 20, Harrington returned with Canadian crusher Marc-Andre Leclerc for a clean send of the esthetic line.

Harrington wrote on Instagram (follow her @bretteharrington), “I returned to Edge of Pan this morning for the send! Six days ago I belayed Mr. Jesse Huey on the second ascent of this knife-blade corner.

“The relentless stemming pumped my legs as I slipped on my flash attempt, but today the cool wind and good company made for a perfect sending recipe.”

Photo Marc-Andre Leclerc — Marc-Andre Leclerc took this photo of Brette Harrington starting up Edge of Pan 5.13a and wrote: “Brette bravely crushing where no ladies had crushed before. Edge of Pan. Originally graded 5.13bR, Brette debunked the myth by skipping the top-rope rehearsal and calmly lacing the corner with bomber micro gear for a second try send. Another good effort by the stemming machine.”

In May, Harrington repeated the difficult Californian route Grand Illusion 5.13+, more here.

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