Buster Martin Repeats The Journey 5.15a

The relatively new route is becoming a popular testpiece in Margalef, Spain

Aaron Pardy April 7, 2024

On April 1, British climber Buster Martin repeated The Journey 5.15a (9a+) at the famous El Racó de La Finestra crag in Margalef, Spain. Established by Tom Bolger in April 2022, The Journey works its way up 18 metres of classic overhanging Margalef stone covered in pockets and crimps. The route has seen repeats from Jorge Diaz-Rullo and Alex Megos.

When Bolger originally bolted The Journey, he also bolted a 17-metre extension. The extension by itself is almost as difficult The Journey, with the two halves being separated by a good jug rest. Megos tried the full line in April 2022 and knew it was going to be a very difficult task to link the two halves. Megos returned to Margalef in fall 2022 for a three-week trip. He sent The Journey in early October and nearly a week later he got the first ascent of the entire route, The Full Journey, grading it 5.15b.

The fingery holds of The Journey injured Martin twice during his projecting process. “Means a lot to come back stronger than last year and finish this off,” he said about the route on Instagram. To top off his sendy day, he also flashed Víctimas del Presente 5.14a.

The Journey is Martin’s third 5.15a. In March this year he redpointed Furia de Jabali in Siurana and back in 2019 he repeated First Ley in Margalef. He has sent 5.14d routes all across Europe, including the ultra-classics Action Directe and Hubble, the second climber ever to climb both historic lines.