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Climber Rips Gear, Hits Ledge, Breaks Helmet

Martin Sieberer took a big fall while attempting a new trad mixed route with Simon Messner

Martin Sieberer recently walked away from a gear-ripping climbing fall while attempting a new route with his longtime partner Simon Messner. Sieberer and Messner often attempt their new mixed rock and ice routes ground up using trad gear, and the two have established several difficult test-pieces over the years.

Sieberer had recently recovered from a climbing related injury when he and Messner roped up for only his second steep mixed ice route in two years. Sieberer was leading a section of chossy rock in warm foggy weather when he took a fall.

About the fall, Messner said, “Martin took a long fall on which he pulled out five pieces of protection. Somehow he turned around as he fell, hitting the ledge first with his head and shoulders. The whole scenery looked just terrible.” Sieberer ripped out two peckers, a piton and two small cams.

Sieberer recently released a new film documenting the first ascent of Smooth Criminal M9 WI7, which you can watch below. “Martin was a bit shaky, his helmet got broken, but he was totally fine,” said Messner about the recent fall. “No wound, no fracture, nothing! How much luck does a climber need in life? This is a question that will haunt our minds for a longer time.”

 

Smooth Criminal

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