Jana Svecova Climbs a New V14 in Czech

Nova is a new problem that links into one of Adam Ondra's famous V16 lines

Gripped June 22, 2023

Jana Svecova has made the first ascent of Nova V14, which is a link-up of two problems Sedni si na kosts and Terranova in Moravian Karst, Czech Republic.

Svecova had been projecting Terranova, which was first climbed by Adam Ondra 2011, and despite climbers like Will Bosi trying it, the problem has never been repeated. After Ondra’s FA of Terranova, Ondra said, “This boulder has been my dream for years, even though it is a low traverse, on zero-friction limestone that gets quickly polished and ends up in a jug. It consists of 12 hard moves and some five moves of easy climbing to get to the obvious jug-spike as the finishing hold.”

After her send, Svecova said, ‘The process of Nova was quite interesting for me, because until session seven I always saw some progress. In other sessions I couldn’t see the progress anymore, and I basically couldn’t make it through the first crux.” She decided to build a replica of the problem on her home wall, which ended up being a big help as she went on to send Nova not long after.

Vincourková started climbing when she was about six, but said that due to competition climbing she quit. She found new motivation over the past few years and started climbing again. She’s previously climbed Roof Der Wildnis V14, Prehistorik V13/14, Lion King V13 and Margo V13.